I hand-coded my first website way back in 1996. I guess that made me a relatively early adopter. That site was text-heavy, because photos and graphics slowed page loads - this was in the dial-up days (kids, ask your parents). Anyway, the first page I wrote that got a lot of traffic was a quick and dirty guide to Dublin - part of the reason it got so popular was that, for a while, I offered the answers to the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl quiz (I stopped when the organisers contacted me). But anyway, the success of that path begat the creation of other similarly quick and dirty city guides for tourist hot-spots.
Part of the problem with travel guide websites is that they go out of date quickly, and I finally gave up trying to keep these guides current in 2008. But the pages are still there... or were, until the host I had been using since Geocities expired (kids, ask your parents) decided I had violated their terms of service by having too much traffic, and that the only way I could unviolate their terms of service would be to upgrade to a paid account. Which would be fair enough if that site had a lot of traffic. It doesn't (362 page views in the whole of 2019), so I feel they're just trying to rail-road me into paying. I don't like being rail-roaded, so am just going to let the old site die. A shame, because there are hundreds of links to it, from all over the place, and I can't even get into my account to set up redirects, so they will all cease to work... still, I'll only be losing 362 page views a year, so I'll probably live. And I've already moved a lot of the other content elsewhere anyway...
So here's a page that condenses all six of the old "Doing ..." city guides into one page. Caveat emptor, this is old, out of date, presented here for historical interest as much as anything. But as long as you're happy with that, choose your city:
Canterbury | Chichester | Dublin | Edinburgh | Norwich | York
Doing Canterbury - a city guide (last updated 31-Dec-2008 11:16:55 GMT)
For a little place (population only about 40,000) there's a lot to do in Canterbury. It only qualifies as a city by merit of it's cathedral but, partly due to the resultant tourists and partly due to the high student population (UKC, Christ Church College and Canterbury College), there are plenty of fine pubs and restaurants to pass the time in. That's when you're not seeing the sights, of course, which are also covered here... click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page off. Or you could spend a couple of quid on Jarrolds' Guide to the Cathedral City of Canterbury which will prepare you nicely for what you're going to see. Alternatively, Images of Canterbury by Andrew Rootes at least gives you an insight into what you can expect, and makes a nice pictorial souvenir of your visit when you get home, whilst if you're focussing on the cathedral, is Canterbury: Pilgrim Guide provides a lot of history as well as a guide to the city.
- Get wedged up - you can convert your $/¥/whatever into Sterling with the Universal Currency Converter.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Buses - a quick and easy means of getting to Canterbury from London is the National Express 020 service from Victoria Coach Station. Barring adverse traffic down the A2/M2, the trip takes less than 2 hours and it's cheap too, especially for students. Canterbury's bus station is currently right in the middle of a major redevelopment of the town centre, so don't expect a fantastic view on arrival. Having said that, if you're coming into town after dark, try to sit on the left side of the coach as you'll get a better view of the cathedral's floodlit west front.
- Trains - there are two mainline stations in Canterbury, East and West. Trains from London run to both (from Victoria to the East station, from Charing Cross or Waterloo to the West). If you're coming in from Europe on the Eurostar you can get off at nearby Ashford and get a connection to the West station from there. Equally, if you're arriving at Dover by cross-channel ferry you can get a train from there to the East station in next to no time. Anyway, for all train timetable enquiries check out the excellent Railtrack website.
- Ferries - of course, East Kent is quite possibly the capital of the passenger ferry universe. Sailings to mainland Europe from Dover with P&O, NorfolkLine and SeaFrance all plough back and forth across the busiest shipping lane in the world on a very regular basis. There's no duty-free to be had any more, technically speaking, but on-board prices still compare favourably with mainland UK.
- Taxis - if you've made your way to Canterbury by public transport, taxis make a reasonably cheap way of getting around during your stay. Prices are much the same the between companies - expect to pay time and a half after midnight though. I used City Cars (01227 454445) a lot with no problems.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that parking isn't always easy (or cheap) here though.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Going upmarket - there are a number of fine hotels in the city, notably the recently refurbished (and very central) Abode Hotel (formerly The County) in the High Street - double rooms start at around £90. Also recommended for the wealthier among you, and similarly priced but slightly less interesting, is the Chaucer Hotel, just across the road from the city wall in Ivy Lane. Equally well appointed (but more modern and a bit cheaper) is Slatter's Hotel where rooms start from around £55 - like the County, it's very central too. The Abbots Barton Hotel on New Dover Road is okay too, but less central, as is the Ebury Hotel (also on New Dover Road) - however, the latter offers an indoor pool, catered and self-catering accommodation, and reasonable room-rates.
- For maximum historical impact... - you could try the Cathedral Gate Hotel which is, as the name suggests, right next door to the cathedral's Christ Church gate, overlooking the Buttermarket. Surprisingly, given the hotel's prime location, rooms are quite reasonable, with prices starting at under £30 for a single room. Although only recently opened as a hotel the building's age and history is evident in every low doorway and sloping floorboard. Another plus is that this hotel is just a few drunken steps from The Old Buttermarket pub should you fancy a few ales. Or there's always the Falstaff Hotel, originally a 15th Century inn, and handily located for the river and parks.
- B&B and guesthouses - you'll find numerous B&Bs of various quality along Castle Street and, slightly less central, Wincheap. The latter is home to the Thanington Hotel which is worth noting if you want a hotel with an indoor pool. The most central guesthouse of all though is Greyfriars House in Stour St which has the added bonus of being right by the river. Rooms are pretty cheap too but there are only six of them, so make sure you book in advance. Alternatively if you don't mind staying a little bit further out in the sticks try the Woolpack Inn at Chilham, just a short drive along the A28.
- Hostels - there are three hostels of note in the City, Kipp's (in Nunnery Fields), Let's Stay and the YHA (both in New Dover Road). I'll let you review their relative merits for yourself here but all I will say is that Nunnery Fields is much quieter at night than New Dover Road, so if you're looking for a good nights sleep...
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for more info, or for a wider choice of hotels, check out the AA's excellent hotel finder.
- The Cathedral - chances are this is main (or only!) reason you've come to Canterbury - the Cathedral has been a focus for pilgrims since Thomas Becket came to a sword-related end in 1170. There has been a church of sorts on the site since 597 when St Augustine arrived on the scene and these days the Cathedral is the global centre of the Anglican faith. The central Bell Harry tower is an imposing site (careful town planning ensures that it can be seen from all around the city), as is the Christ Church gate that leads into the Cathedral grounds. A particularly good (and very popular) photo of the latter can be taken from the High Street looking down Mercery Lane - the gaggle of tourists marks the spot! As an example of a Gothic church, only Reims in France rivals Canterbury for its architecture and stained glass. Also worthy of note are the tomb of the Black Prince and the Crypt. It's probably worth pointing out that it costs a couple of quid to visit the Cathedral these days but it is worth it and anyway, what can you buy for £2 these days anyway? Sad but true, there is soon to be a Starbuck's coffee house right next to the Christchurch Gate. Call me old-fashioned if you must but isn't that going to spoil a lot of tourists' photo opportunities?
- Chaucer... - in my humble opinion the easiest way to get to grips with Geoffrey Chaucer's most famous work, the Canterbury Tales (which you can buy here if you're interested), is to take yourself along to the Canterbury Tales Visitor Attraction in St Margaret's Street. A combination of animatronics, lights, sounds and smells are used in a series of rooms to recreate the right atmosphere whilst multi-lingual audio guides relate a selection of tales from the book. My personal favourite is the Wife of Bath's tale, not that I share her opinion of gap-toothed women! The Knight's Tale is pretty good too. Anyway, admission will set you back £5.90 but, once more, this is money well spent. Expect to queue to get in during the summer; conveniently the City fish & chip shop is very close by, so you could always pass the time with a portion of chips......
- Durovernum - that was the Roman name for Canterbury. Julius Caesar visited in the first century and these days nothing new can be built without an extensive archeological dig being carried out first - Channel 4's Time Team were more recent visitors to the city. Tucked away in a very unobtrusive location down Butchery Lane you'll find the excellent Roman Museum, a personal favourite of mine. As well as the usual selection of pottery and jewellery, the museum houses some very well preserved mosaic floors. Okay, so it's not Bath but it's pretty damn good. If you've got kids they'll probably enjoy the hands-on section too.
- Get locked up - check out the Westgate Towers, the best preserved gate through the old city walls. It used to house a jail, and the museum that's there today includes a recreated cell. The museum itself is quite interesting but the main attraction, other than the external photo shot and the prison cell, is the view across the city you can get from the battlements at the top of the tower. Be advised that this attraction shuts between 12.30 and 1.30 for lunch, and doesn't open at all on Sundays.
- Parklife - if you've got a packed lunch and you're looking for somewhere to eat it there are a couple of options. The Dane John Gardens, recently renovated courtesy of a Lottery Commission grant, is a carefully landscaped oasis of calm in the heart of the city, and features a bandstand, an ornamental fountain, a little maze for the kids, and a number of kissing gates! There's also a war memorial atop the Dane John mound; I've heard opinions that this was once a burial site or the bailey for a very early mott-and-bailey type castle. Regardless of how it came to be, the view from the top of the mound towards the Cathedral makes for an excellent photograph, plus you can walk along what's left of the City walls for a bit too. Anyway, the other alternative is the Westgate Gardens which benefits from the fact that the River Stour meanders through it - boat trips operate from here in the summer months. This park's beautifully manicured lawns and colourful flower beds make this the ideal location to while away an hour or two on a hot, sunny day.
- Get educated - The Pilgrims' Hospital of St Thomas is very easy to miss, despite the fact that it's slap-bang in the middle of the High Street. It's a deceptively large Medieval building, built in the 12th Century and, as the name suggest, was used by pilgrims on their way to the Cathedral. Now it houses a small museum of sorts in the main hall, whilst the chapel and pilgrims' refectory are also open to the public. Also, in the old Poor Priests' Hospital, Stour Street, you will now find the Canterbury Heritage Museum. The building has well-preserved medieval interiors and impressive oak roofs dating back over six centuries. Inside you'll find all you ever wanted to know about Canterbury's history, plus the kids will love the Rupert the Bear gallery (his creator, Mary Tourtel, was a local). Also, the Canterbury Royal Museum & Art Gallery is right in the middle of the High Street, above the library, in a very bizarrely decorated building called the Beaney Institute, itself worthy of a photo. Inside you'll find a gallery and the Buff's Museum, pertaining to a local regiment. A recent exhibition in the gallery was of work by the famous satirical cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, if that helps at all. Okay, so it's a pretty small museum as such things go but if you've got an hour or so to spare it's certainly worth a quick look. Admission is free, so what do you have to lose? Talking of admission, it's probably worth pointing out that you can get a Museum Passport which will get you into the Roman Museum, Heritage Museum and the Westage Towers Museum at a reduced rate - it's available at any of these three attractions.
- All ruined - Canterbury's castle, at the top of Castle Street, funnily enough, is a Norman affair in a pretty advanced state of ruin, so don't go there expecting anything too staggering. It is worth a visit though, if only to have a wander round the grounds, have a read of the informational display boards, and marvel at the fact that the damned thing, over 900 years old, is still standing... Also, take a stroll round to St Augustine's Abbey (behind Christ Church College) - again it is largely ruined but what ruins! Where else are you going to see the remains of a 1400-year old chapel? There's also a little museum covering the history of the place and its many uses over the years, and audio-guides are available. Recommended.
- Palace Street - not your average thoroughfare, Palace Street is full of varied architecture, numerous listed buildings and, most popular of all, the King's Gallery (so called because of its proximity to the famous King's School). Subsidence has led to the front of the building leaning over at incredible angle - locals used to call it the crooked door shop. There are some neat antique shops down this way too. Note - you might also see this area being touted as "The King's Mile".
- Get spooked - if you're the kind of person that enjoys a walk and can pretend to be scared then get yourself along to the Billabong pub in St Margaret's Street at 8pm on a Friday night - an organised ghost walk leaves from there most weeks.
- Café des Amis - St Dunstan's St. Not, as the name suggests, a French restaurant but a fine Mexican with a convivial atmosphere, friendly staff and cracking food. Prices are reasonable too. I feel duty-bound to recommend the fajitas, as they are especially good. "Café Des" is very popular though, so you are advised to book early to avoid disappointment.
- Caffe Uno - High St. Okay, so I don't usually go in for restaurants that are part of a chain but this Caffe Uno is very pleasant indeed. Don't be put off by the view from the pavement, as it is a deceptively spacious place with additional seating upstairs. As with most Caffe Uno's you can see your food being cooked too, which is always nice. I would have to recommend the pollo al rosmarino, followed by a pana cotta for dessert...
- Deep Blue - Wincheap. Without question the best fist and chip establishment in Canterbury. The food is superb, the service is friendly and the portions, both to take away and in the adjoining restaurant, are huge. Okay, so you have to walk outside the city walls to get there but if you are looking for a traditional English meal you won't find anything finer. Good value too.
- Marlowe's - The Friar's. Just a few short steps from the Marlowe Theatre and so very popular with the pre-/post-show crowd. It is not overly cheap, probably because it has that captive theatre audience, but the food is highly recommended. They have a "bring-your-own-wine" policy too, which can be handy.
- Ask - High St. Ask occupies a very nice position just next to the river and offers fine pizza and pasta in refined surroundings. It's probably not a place you'd want to take your kids though. If you like your salads large and your pizzas thin but can't stand the idea of some dreadful Pizza Hut, Ask is ideal.
- The Shed Cantina - Dover St. A new restaurant, just behind the cinema so well-placed for a bite to eat before a movie. It describes itself as offering Californian cuisine, whatever that means; all I can say is that the food is mighty fine, the service is friendly and the ambience is cool. Enjoy!
- Caffe Venezia - Palace St. A relatively new restaurant, unsurprisingly offering a fine Italianate menu. What can I say, it's a nice restaurant in a nice part of town with a (sometimes temperamental) website here.
- Tapas en la Trece - Palace St. I have to say that tapas isn't really my first choice for a meal out but if it's yours then this is the best on the area. I seem to (hazily) recall this place having a quite decent wine list too...
- Burrito Bob's - 89 Northgate. Okay, so it's a take-away but you could do much, much worse than enjoy the eponymous Bob's excellent fajitas, tacos and, of course, burritos. Excellent for a light lunch snack or as a "mid-session interval" during a night out on the beer.
- Wetherspoon's pubs - there are two in Canterbury, The Thomas Ingoldsby in Burgate and The Westgate Inn in North Lane. The good thing about Wetherspoon's pubs is that as well as having a nice pint of very reasonably priced ale they also serve good, simple food too. Beer and a burger for under a fiver, anyone? And unlike a lot of pubs that are pretending to be restaurants these days, you don't have to listen to blaring music whilst you're eating as Wetherspoon's pubs don't have jukeboxes!
- The Jolly Sailor - corner of Northgate and Broad St. A cracking pub with a large TV for sporting events, a pool table (Tuesday night is killer pool night), a fine jukebox, friendly staff and a good selection of real ales. It is very popular with Canterbury's student population too.
- The City Arms - Butchery Lane. The ancient timber-framed building that housed this excellent pub was recently involved in a big fire - it's open again now after an extensive refurb. Beer had been served on this site for about 400 years, so despite the fact that's it not as good as it used to be pre-fire, it may still be worth a look.
- The Cricketers - St Peter's St. After a brief flirtation of being called Oranges, now back to it's original name. Full of bright young things most nights, and very handy if you've just popped into Subway across the road for a sandwich. The selection of beers isn't really to my taste, but if you like people-watching...
- The Cherry Tree - White Horse Lane. Very popular with the city's student population, not least because there's a different drinks promotion nearly every night! Gets very busy Thursday, Friday and Saturday, so you may find yourself spilling out onto the pavement with a plastic "glass" in hand.
- Ha!Ha! - St Margaret's St. A relatively new addition to Canterbury's pub roster, Ha!Ha! is a very civilised place to have a view beers and a decent bit to eat. If you're ordering food and are having chips (aka "fries" if you're from the US), ask for fat chips, not thin, they're definitely worth it.
- Simple Simon's - St Radigund's St. Probably the best pub in the city for real ale purists, Simple's always has a wide range of excellent beers. There's live music here two a couple of times a week, usually blues or jazz - that, coupled with the low, beamed ceiling and courtyard garden (or roaring fire, depending on the season) make this a worthy port of call.
- The New Inn - Havelock St. Hard to spot, as it's basically just a terraced house which, until recently, didn't even have a pub sign hanging outside! Despite it's poor self-promotion, this quiet establishment is another fine real-ale establishment. There's no big-screen TV, no jukebox or fruit machines (that I can recall) but the atmosphere is good and the beer is better. A good pub for the first beer of the evening...
- Bar Xtreme - Dover St. Right opposite The Shed, this is a themed pub, the theme being extreme sports. The clientele is therefore very youthful, which may or may not be a bad thing, depending on your own age. It does get very loud in there when they have a DJ doing a set though so if that is not your bag you'd be advised to steer clear.
- Alberry's - St Margaret's St. A wine bar with a late license on Fridays and Saturdays, Alberry's is a little on the small side but is all the better for that. It's also right opposite Ha!Ha!, which makes it handy for pub-crawling purposes. The basement is particularly good, with a rough stone arched ceiling. I have seen the bar down there set alight with a flaming sambucca, but that's another story...
- The Bishop's Finger - St Dunstan's St. Also known locally as The Nun's Delight, ho ho. A little out of the city centre but a nice pub with a lively atmosphere. The beer, being Shepherd Neame, isn't to everyone's taste (including mine) but at least it's well kept. There's also an extensive selection of cocktails, which helps to ensure a good pre-club crowd at weekends.
- The Miller's Arms - St Radigund's St. Not the pub it once was but still worthy of a mention, not least because of the good food that's also on offer there. A former Wine Pub of the Year.
- The Penny Theatre - Northgate. Now part of the "It's A Scream" pub chain, and extensively refurbished since its days as Canterbury's premier live music venue (curiously I once saw The Wedding Present there). Anyway, The Penny is very popular with students who can get a yellow card there, entitling them to drink discounts. It also has a very nice pool table, whilst the large-screen TV makes this a good venue for watching sporting events.
- Club life - Canterbury is not too well served in this respect. Chill (formerly Chicago Rock Cafe) in Dover Road is the most mainstream (and popular); the music isn't very adventurous, but it's still quite good fun. You need to get in the queue before 10.30pm on a Friday or Saturday to avoid a long wait though, and there's a dress code (no jeans or trainers on those nights). Further up Dover Road is Planet Studio, a very small and slightly tatty establishment. Saturday is hard house night which is all very well if you like dancing with glo-sticks in your hand but I'd recommend The Time Tunnel 80s night every Friday. Alternatively they do stage some form of live music every Tuesday, though the quality of this varies somewhat, so be cautious. Finally, there's the 3-clubs-in-1 experience that is Baa-Bars/The Works/The Bizz, in Station Road East. Baa-Bars is on the ground floor, The Works on the first and The Bizz on the second. Basically the higher up the building the harder the music becomes, and the less likely you are to hear any retro hits. Baa-Bars does vodka & Red Bull for £1 on Thursdays, which might be worth knowing.
- And finally... - for more detailed information about pubs, clubs and post-pub fast-food establishments check out the excellent CanterburyPubs.co.uk website, and Ant Veal's UK Pub Guide.
- Other online guides - in no particular order: Tour Canterbury, Canterbury city guide, Thycotic and Cantweb.
- Canterbury City Council - boring but useful for local businesses and services.
- The coat of arms - in case you're into heraldry...
Doing Chichester - a city guide (last updated 06-Jan-2008 16:09:55 GMT)
For a little place there's a lot to do in and around Chichester. The cathedral is a big draw, as are the many and varied attractions of the surrounding countryside (some of which are covered here). Anyway, it's an excellent base from which to enjoy West Sussex, and there are plenty of fine pubs and restaurants to while away your evenings in too... click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page off. Or you could spend a couple of quid on Chichester - an illustrated history which will prepare you nicely for what you're going to see. A possible alternative, and obviously good is you're obsessive about cathedrals, is Chichester Cathedral: A Historical Survey which, at over 400 pages, tells you everything you could ever wish to know about the aforementioned building.
- Get wedged up - you can convert your $/¥/whatever into Sterling with the Universal Currency Converter.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Buses - an easy means of getting to Chichester from London is the National Express 027 service from Victoria Coach Station. Barring adverse traffic, the trip takes about 3 hours 40 minutes though and it's pretty infrequent. There is a more regular service that goes via Brighton but that takes more than 5 hours and involves changing coaches! In other words, what I'm trying to say is that getting to Chichester by coach can be done, and it's cheap... but it's very tiresome.
- Trains - trains from London run regularly to Chichester from Victoria (direct) or Waterloo (change at Havant). Either way, the journey can take as little as an hour and a half, which seems like a good deal to me. Anyway, for all train timetable enquiries check out National Rail.
- Taxis - if you've made your way to Chichester by public transport, taxis make a reasonably cheap way of getting around during your stay. Prices are much the same the between companies - expect to pay time and a half after midnight though. I used Starline Taxis (01243 531666) once with no problems.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that parking isn't always easy (or cheap) here though.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Going upmarket - there are a few fine hotels in the city area, notably the very central Ship Hotel in North Street - double rooms go for around £95, and there's also a four-poster room if you're feeling romantic. Also rated highly, similarly priced but slightly less central, is the superbly named Crouchers Bottom Country Hotel, which offers comfortable surroundings for a refined stay. For those of you who prefer to stay with a hotel chain, there's a Ramada Jarvis on the outskirts of town that has the added benefit of lovely indoor pool.
- B&B and guesthouses - you'll find numerous B&Bs of various quality in around Chichester. A particularly good one is Litten House in St Pancras: central, cosy and reasonably priced; however, they only let rooms to non-smokers. Also worth a look is Richmond Close, confusingly in Hunter's Way. This is a smart guesthouse with a nice little garden, but again they are a non-smoking establishment! If you really must insist on poisoning yourself, I'd recommend Palm Tree Cottage on Fishbourne Road West as the pick of the B&Bs that allow smoking.
- Hostels - I couldn't find any hostels in Chichester! The nearest I could find was the YMCA in Arundel which might catch your eye if you're on a tight budget. At least it's only a short jaunt from Chichester by road or rail.
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for more info, or for a wider choice of hotels, check out the RAC's excellent hotel finder.
- The Cathedral - chances are this is one of the main (or only!) reason you've come to Chichester - the Cathedral is a fine structure, right in the middle of the city. Unusually, it comes in two pieces, with an old bell tower standing apart from the main cathedral building. The cloisters are also worth a look, if memory serves.
- The Cross - at first glance you might think this is a bit of a misleading name since the structure itself seems pretty well rounded. However, a glance at your tourist map will give you some indication of how this structure got its name. A focal point for the city, and a fine photo opportunity to boot, The Cross stands at the intersection of Chichester's two main streets, which run North-South and East-West respectively. Anyway, I should point that there's nothing to do here, it's just a landmark building. But it is a good place to meet up, and you can't come to Chichester and not take a picture of it, okay?
- Get civilised - tucked away down the quiet side street that is North Pallant, you'll find the Pallant House Gallery. This creaky little townhouse (admittedly currently undergoing a refurb and expansion) is home to works by Peter Blake, Lucian Freud, Henry Moore, Pablo Picasso, and more besides. There's also a very interesting display of work done by inmates of a local prison. Anyway, this gallery is certainly worth a look - and don't despair if you're only going there because your significant other wants to: it's a pretty small place and you can be in and out in a couple of hours. Oh yes, I should probably point out that the gallery doesn't open on Mondays.
- Shop til you drop - the main shopping streets in Chichester are arranged in a cross shape, running North-South and East-West through the centre of town. Unsurprisingly, these streets are called North, South, East and West Streets respectively. Even at a modest pace it's easy to walk from one end of the cross to the far end of the diametrically opposing street in just 10 minutes, from which you can gather that Chichester isn't huge. However, it does have a satisfactory range of shops, including many high-street names - certainly enough to while away a few hours. If it's a rainy day and you're looking for somewhere to keep dry for a bit, try the Army & Navy department store opposite the Cathedral. The market is also worth a look - it takes place on Saturday (I think) and is held, unsurprisingly, in the Market Road car park.
- The silver screen - now I don't usually mention cinemas in my guides - after all, every city's got one, right? Well, Chichester Cinema is a little different, and as far removed from the modern multiplex as you can get. Situated on the edge of New Park, the cinema itself looks a bit like a village hall, and has seating to match! There's a licensed bar on-site, which makes a change from a tub of popcorn and a film tie-in coke. More importantly though, there's an eclectic selection of films on offer: foreign language films are very popular, classics are shown on Sunday mornings, and kids' films occupy Saturday mornings. Of course, they also show conventional cinema releases too. There's only one screen, but they make up for this by having 4 or 5 shows most days. My advice would be to check out their what's on when you first arrive and pick a show that suits your tastes - it's a nostalgic experience!
- Pretend you're in Gladiator - ten minutes drive from Chichester, west along the A259, you'll find Fishbourne Roman Palace and Gardens, home to Britain's largest collection of in-situ mosaics. The palace in question or, more accurately, the remains of the palace in question was once a vast and sumptuous Roman villa, probably the home of King Togidubnus. You can walk above huge mosaic floors on a suspended pathway (the one featuring dolphins makes for a good photograph if you've got a decent camera) whilst the optional audio commentary adds worthwhile detail about each of the rooms you see. Outside (for the villa has been covered in a draughty 1970's structure) you'll find a unique replanted Roman garden, which is nice for a stroll if nothing else. If, like me, you were fascinated by the Romans when you were a kid, this place is a must... plus the gift shop sells humourous Latin-phrase fridge magnets!
- Get crafty - 3 miles west of Chichester is one of the oldest villages in Sussex, Bosham (pronounced Bozzum). Here you'll find the Bosham Walk Art and Crafts Centre, a collection of 19 little craft shops in one building. The great thing about this place is that you can usually find some of the craftsmen at work, as well as find unique gifts to buy. There's also a cosy tea room too which is very welcoming if, like me, you visit on a wet and windy day. Old Bosham village is worth a look too: the beautiful Saxon church stands next to a millstream and a National Trust-owned meadow, adjacent to a natural harbour where, according to legend, King Canute tried to halt the advancing tide! One more thing - try the ice-cream from the shop next to the craft centre - you won't regret it.
- For castle and cathedral lovers - a short drive or train ride east of Chichester you'll find Arundel, home to the sort of picture-postcard castle tourists love. Careful during winter/Valentine's breaks though, as Arundel Castle is shut during Nov-Feb. The town itself is also worth exploring, for its picturesque buildings and (after an invigorating uphill walk) the Cathedral of Our Lady and Saint Philip Howard. I'm not going to say too much more about Arundel - after all, this is a Chichester guide - suffice to say that you should definitely visit, and that you'll probably want to take a stroll out onto the bridge near the Castle's Lower Lodge for the obligatory panoramic photo of the town, showing olde worlde buildings and castle turrets. Finally, be warned - Arundel knows it has a huge captive tourist audience, so tea-rooms are very expensive!
- Ask - East St. One of the nicest places I ate at during my stay, Ask offers fine pizza and pasta in relaxed and airy surroundings. It's probably not a place you'd want to take your kids though. If you like your salads large and your pizzas thin but can't stand the idea of some dreadful Pizza Hut, Ask is ideal.
- The Nag's Head - St Pancras. Not only is this a pleasant pub with friendly staff, the food is definitely worth a look. I'd have to recommend the very reasonably priced carvery which, as well as tasting great, is virtually an "all you can eat" affair. It's also only the shortest strolls from the cinema, so it makes a good choice for a pre-/post-film meal. Not only that, The Nags Head is unusual in that it has a large screen TV for sporting events in one part of the dining area so you can eat and watch footy at the same time! Non-sports fans needn't worry though, this area only makes up about a quarter (if that) of the total dining area.
- Woody's - St Pancras. Just a couple of paces from The Nag's Head, Woody's lays claim to the title of oldest wine bar in Sussex; read into that what you will. The drinks are therefore a tiny bit more expensive but the atmosphere is more refined. There's also a more extensive menu on offer, so if you find you can't keep eating roast dinners next door every day, Woody's offers a sensible alternative.
- Sadlers - East St. A wine bar and restaurant which advertises tapas as its main speciality. However, it seems they have a different theme most weeknights - when I was passing they were having a Jamaican night, with associated cuisine and reggae music. There are separate dining rooms away from the bar and, if the weather permits, there's also a secluded patio garden - ideal for warm summer evenings.
- Café Rouge - Southgate. Admittedly this is just a basic outlet for the ubiquitous French brasserie chain; however, it gets a mention here on the basis that they offer a superb deal in conjunction with the aforementioned Chichester Cinema. Keep your cinema ticket stubs and present them to Café Rouge for a two-for-one main course offer any time between Monday and Friday after 4pm. A good deal for those on a budget then...
- The Buttery at The Crypt - South St. In the shadow of the Cathedral, this tea-shop offers a good selection of light snacks, cream teas, and the like. You pay marginally over the odds for the environment and service, which plays on the age and historical significance of the building, but it's worth it. If you're just looking for a mid-afternoon cup of tea and a slice of cake, this would be my choice.
- Wetherspoon's pubs - for those of you who like to know what you're getting before you arrive at a pub, try the The Dolphin & Anchor in West Street. The good thing about Wetherspoon's pubs is that as well as having a nice pint of very reasonably priced ale they also serve good, simple food too. Beer and a burger for under a fiver, anyone? And unlike a lot of pubs that are pretending to be restaurants these days, you don't have to listen to blaring music whilst you're eating as Wetherspoon's pubs don't have jukeboxes!
- The George & Dragon - North St. Although it looks like it's had a recent refurb, this still feels like a traditional pub, and certainly serves a well-kept pint. The menu is pretty basic pub fare but is generally good. All in all, this is an excellent place to stop for lunch, as well as a pleasant evening watering hole.
- Chichester Inn - West St. Another good pub to spend a lunchtime in, not least because of its south-facing garden. Also, for those cooler evenings, you'll find a nice log fire here. There's also a pool table for the lads (and lasses, of course), plus a rudimentary but inoffensive lunch menu.
- Park Tavern - Priory Rd. Yet another pub with a traditional look and feel, this is a good choice for the real ale connoisseurs amongst you. Again, basic pub food is also available.
- The Bell Inn - Broyle Rd. To be honest there's nothing especially great about this pub but it is right opposite the theatre, so if you're looking for somewhere for pre-show meals or post-show drinks...
- Club life - Chichester is not too well served in this respect, to say the least. Your best bet for a late drink and a dance is the uninspiringly named Thursday Night Club which, one would hope, opens on other nights of the week too. Indeed, Tuesday is 70s/80s night, Friday is "Rock DJ" night and so on. Admission is discounted before 11, and the dress code is officially smart/casual, which equates to no jeans or trainers.
- And finally... - for more detailed information about pubs, clubs and post-pub fast-food establishments check out the always-interesting Knowhere Guide and, for recommended pubs in West Sussex, Ant Veal's UK Pub Guide.
- Other online guides - in no particular order: Chichester Web, Visit Sussex, CityNetGuide, West Sussex Info and UK Villages.
- Chichester District Council - boring but occasionally useful for local businesses and services.
Doing Dublin - a city guide (last updated 21-Nov-2006 10:56:55 GMT)
After recent trips to Dublin, I was so taken with the place I decided I needed to write a page about it. There's so much to see and do... however, if you're only going to be there for a few days, as I was, what you really need is a quick and dirty guide to the fair city. Read on... click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page off. Or you could spend a couple of quid on the excellent value Berlitz pocket guide... small, yet perfectly formed. If you want something more substantial, I recommend DK Eyewitness Travel Guides: Dublin... - colourful, easy to read and digest and packed full of info! Alternatively, if you're looking for a general Ireland guide, try the excellent Spiral Guide to Ireland, beautifully presented and with a spine that is very hard to damage! Okay, so those nice people at Lonely Planet do a very popular guide but it's a bit on the big/heavy side for the jeans pocket. Also good reading for your trip, though not a guide, is the very amusing Round Ireland With A Fridge by Tony Hawks in which our hero hitch-hikes around the Emerald Isle (with a fridge, obviously) to win a bet - since his trip begins and ends in Dublin, what better reading material for your trip could there be? Or you could try the excellent McCarthy's Bar, by Pete McCarthy, or anything by Roddy Doyle - I'd recommend The Barrytown Trilogy (which comprises The Commitments, The Snapper, and The Van).
- Get wedged up - you can convert your £/$/¥/whatever into Euros (€) with the Universal Currency Converter. You might as well throw any old Punts you've got knocking about away, or give them to charity, as Ireland has embraced the single European currency.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Flying - RyanAir have a regular scheduled service to Dublin from many UK cities. It's particularly easy from Stansted, where a return flight costs around £59. AerLingus offer a comparable, but more expensive, service. If you can get a window seat, have your camera ready when you're coming in to land as you can get a nice aerial shot of the Howth peninsula on a sunny day.
- Buses - since Dublin airport is quite a way out of town, the bus service is one of the first things you'll want to find out about. You can catch a Dublin Bus 41, 41a, 41b, 41c or 747 right outside the arrivals lounge. The 747 is a direct shuttle to Dublin's bus station, the Busarus, and costs around €4. All the 41 services are less direct and stop along the way, but they're also cheaper (about €1.50). By the way, if you see An Làr on the front of a bus, it's headed for the city centre.
- Trains - the train is certainly the best way to see more of Ireland during your stay. The three most central stations are Connolly, Tara Street and Pearse. Best of all is the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) which is kind of an overground Tube service. €4 or thereabouts will buy you all all-day travel card, allowing you to roam as far afield as Arklow in the south to Dundalk in the north.
- Ferries - Irish Ferries (formerly the B&I Line) operates a regular service from Holyhead to Dublin, whilst Stena Sealink run a ferry from Holyhead to Dun Laoghaire. The latter also have a high-speed catamaran service from Holyhead to Dun Laoghaire which only takes 90 minutes. If travelling to Dun Laoghaire, the easiest way to make the 8 mile journey into central Dublin is to catch a DART.
- Taxis - taxis are plentiful and, better yet, because their fares are centrally regulated you shouldn't get too ripped off. Be a little wary of getting cabs late at night if you're a bit wasted though, as some cabbies might take advantage of your not knowing where you are to drive you round in circles, clocking up the fare all the while... Anyway, a cab from the city centre to the airport should set you back around €20. Also, whilst you won't find any London-style black cabs here, MPV taxis are quite numerous if you need to carry more than 4 people.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that parking isn't always easy (or cheap) here though.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Lower Gardiner Street - just around the corner from the Busarus and Connolly Station, Lower Gardiner Street is serious guest-house country. To get anything half decent, I'd advise you to book in advance - the Irish National Tourism Board (Bord Failte) can help you here. Should you leave it til you get there, pop into their office in Suffolk Street (nicely converted from the former St Andrew's church) where they have a city-wide room finding service. Typical of the accommodation available is The Glen, 84 Lower Gardiner Street - rooms are clean and have en-suite facilities, and a full Irish breakfast is included in the room rate (€70 per night for a double-room).
- Hostels - if the budget won't stretch to a B&B, there are many hostels to be found in Dublin, where you can get a roof over your head from as little as €9 per night (Backpackers, just a few doors down from The Glen in Lower Gardiner Street). The Irish Youth Hostels' Association (An Oige) can be quite useful in this respect.
- Alternatively... - if you fancy something a bit more upmarket, without going totally overboard, try The Mont Clare Hotel, just off Merrion Square. It's posh enough to make you feel like you're really hob-nobbing it, but it won't empty your wallet completely - rooms start at around €150 per night, including breakfast.
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for a fast, reliable and easy-to-use way of comparing nearly 400 hotels in Dublin, and quickly finding which have availability for when you're travelling, I recommend easytobook.com - the great thing about this website, in addition to the user-friendly design, is that, unusually, it also lets you search for, and make, group bookings. It's not just limited to Dublin either, but offers hotel rooms for cities in over 130 countries around the world. Recommended.
- Walking tours - the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl is an absolute must. Tickets are €8 (€7 for students) and can be bought in advance from the Suffolk Street Tourist Information office. Basically, you meet in an upstairs room in The Duke pub (in Duke Street, funnily enough) at 7.30 where your genial hosts (if lucky, you'll get Derek and Brendan) greet you with an amusing Irish song and your first snatch of Irish drama. In the course of the evening, you'll walk between any 4 of 10 pubs, stopping in the grounds of Trinity College and taking in the old Houses of Parliament (now the Bank of Ireland. In between all the acting and story-telling (which includes works by Joyce, Wilde, Beckett, Behan, and others), you'll have about 20 minutes drinking time in each of the pubs, which is just enough time to fathom the answers to the quiz! Yes, questions get asked throughout the evening and, come the end of the crawl, whoever shouts their answers loudest first wins. The prize is a Dublin Literary Pub Crawl T-shirt with Jameson (the walk's sponsor) whiskey knick-knacks for the runners-up. Please do not e-mail me for answers anymore, as the organisers have very politely asked that I stop helping you lot win so easily!
- Cathedrals - Dublin has two cathedrals, St Patrick's and Christ Church. These two are close enough for there to be a friendly rivalry and, although their architectural styles are not dissimilar (both were massively renovated in the 19th century), there's enough variation here to make them both worth visiting. St Patrick's is larger, the largest religious site in Ireland, I think, with some fine stained glass, plus the oldest peal of ringing bells in the country. The author Jonathan Swift was dean here, and he's buried near the entrance, next to his mistress, Stella. Christ Church, on the other hand, has a beautifully intricate tiled floor - it's a Victorian copy of the original, but none the less impressive for that. Another point of interest is St Lawrence of Arabia's heart, which hangs on the wall in an iron casket, coolly enough. There's also a pretty fine crypt which doesn't feel as if it changed much for years and years and years... although in medieval times, it doubled as a tavern! Anyway, see both cathedrals - compare and contrast!
- Other fancy buildings - in particular, look out for the Four Courts (just down the road from Christ Church Cathedral) and the Customs House (near the Busarus). Both are jewels of the Dublin sky-line and, since they both nestle on the north bank of the Liffey, provide good photo opportunities. If your camera's up to it, visit these at night as they look particularly impressive when flood-lit. Funnily enough, the General Post Office in O'Connell Street is also worth a visit, as it has an interesting place in Irish history: rebels holed up here, it got heavily shelled by the British and (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) Patrick Pearse read the first declaration of Irish independence on the front steps. Inside, as well as buying stamps, you can take in a series of ten fine paintings that illustrate key points in Ireland's path to autocracy.
- Be merry - think Ireland, think Guinness! And it's true, the black stuff really does taste better in Dublin (I think this is something to do with not being pasteurised, as it has to be by law in the UK), even if it does take forever to settle. Afficianados should take a trip out to the Guinness Hop Store on the west side of town, where you can take a tour of the world-famous brewery site (with free samples at the end). It's hard to believe the range of Guinness-related merchandise available, from the obvious (pint glasses) to the less so (Guinness boot laces, anyone?). Okay, so it's all a bit touristy, but you can't go to Dublin without doing this, can you?
- Get educated - the Dublin Writer's Museum, just off Parnell Square, is just one of many excellent establishments that will stimulate your brain-cells before you deaden them with Guinness. You can find out all about all the writers mentioned on this page, and more besides, so it's quite a good idea to go here before you take the Literary Pub Crawl - that way you'll know a bit of the background, and maybe a few of the quiz answers! There's also a good audio guide available if you don't mind wearing headphones and carrying an oversized Walkman round the museum with you. Strangely, there's also a fine collection of miniature furniture on show upstairs, although quite what this has to do with literature I don't know. Another couple of worthwhile attractions that might appeal to the more discerning tourist are The National Gallery of Ireland and the Natural History Museum, both of which lie on the west side of Merrion Square and both of which are free. The former houses a fine collection of paintings and prints - in particular look out for Danby's The Breaking of the Sixth Seal, and Lanfranco's interpretation of The Last Supper whilst the latter houses a vast collection of taxidermy. Now stuffed animals aren't really to my taste (a bit too Norman Bates) but there is also an impressive collection of animal skeletons, including whales, elephants, a giraffe and a number of huge Giant Irish deer, sadly long since hunted to extinction.
- Georgian doors - take a wander round the lovely Merrion Square, where every door has a different style. Oscar Wilde grew up round here (number 1, I think, now owned by the American College Dublin), and Yeats lived in the square for a while too. The gardens in the middle of the square are lovely, a real haven from the hustle and bustle of the city - in the north-west corner, you'll find a statue that appears (to me anyway) to show Wilde choosing between two other figures: a male torso and a naked pregnant woman. Read into that what you will, whilst pausing to read Oscar's quotes that adorn the two figures' pedestals. Only dull people are interesting at breakfast, after all...
- Trinity College - this places houses all manner of interesting sights! Most of the tourists come to see the Book of Kells, which is an ancient (11th Century?) religious manuscript, beautifully illustrated by the scholars of the day. The exhibition then leads into the College's Old Library which, in itself, is quite a sight: in the Long Room, row upon row of antique books are lined with busts of historical figures. You can get a joint ticket for €7.50 which also gets you in to The Dublin Experience, a 30 minute multi-media show that takes place in the College Arts building, just across the square from the entrance to The Book of Kells. The College itself was commissioned by Elizabeth I - the stone under the campus' central campanile commemorates this fact on the site of the first building work. It's said that the bell only rings when a virgin walks under the campanile...
- DART (1) - North Jump on a DART train and head up to Howth - it's on a little peninsula, the south side of which offers fine views over Dublin on a sunny day (be warned though - it's a bit of a hike to the south side, although you can take in the Howth lighthouse en-route if you follow the scenic cliff-top path). From Howth harbour you can (depending on the mood of the boat's skipper) get a boat-trip out to Ireland's Eye, which is a little island just off the coast - it's calm and peaceful, has a small golden beach and is a haven for bird-life, if ornithology is your thing. Whilst in Howth, pop into Maud's cafe, half-way between the harbour and the DART station. Try some of their award-winning ice-cream - since you're in Ireland, you might as well try the Guinness flavour! From Howth, take another DART to Malahide (you'll have to change at Howth junction). Turn right on leaving Malahide station and you'll find Malahide Castle after about 500 yards, on your left - it is certainly worth a look.
- DART (2) - South Nip down to Bray first, which should allow you to take in a little rolling green scenery on the way. Again, there's a pleasant coastal walk you can follow up towards Sandycove (where you can find a James Joyce museum based in his old house). Also in this area is Killiney Bay, a rather exclusive neck of the woods that is home to some of Ireland's more famous sons and daughters, including racing driver Eddie Irvine.
- Gallagher's Boxty House - Temple Bar. Keenly priced traditional fare (boxty is a sort of potato pancake, stuffed with various fillings) make this place very popular. It is good though, and the lunchtime set menu is great value - 3 courses (soup, boxty and ice-cream, for example) for €7.50! The portions aren't small either. They do serve food other than boxty, which isn't too everyone's taste, but if you're going to go here what's the point in having anything else?
- O'Dwyer's - Lower Mount Street. After a spot of Georgian door spotting in Merrion Square, turn off into Lower Mount St and before you know it you come to O'Dwyer's, an establishment that proves it is possible to combine a pub and a pizzeria. A basic meal consists of a huge wedge of pizza and a mountain of the best chips (fries) in Dublin and it's great for the budget - Hawaiian pizza, chips and a mug of tea will only set you back €5! The other good thing about O'Dwyers is that it's a little bit off the beaten tourist track - however, it is very popular with local office workers and so gets pretty busy at lunchtimes. It's worth the walk and the wait for those chips though. Later in the day, check out the licensed late bar (Howl At The Moon) where you can drink 'til 2am seven nights a week.
- Bewley's - There are a number of branches around the city, but head for the original one in Grafton Street. Eat in the Harry Clarke Room to admire the unorthodox and increasingly collectible stained glass, amidst faded art deco. The food is only average but it's the surroundings you come for. Having said that, the strawberry cheesecake is excellent.
- Captain America's - 42 (?) Grafton Street. If you just fancy a burger and chips one day, this is the place to go. Why? Because it doubles as rock'n'roll museum. Where else could you sit below the first drum kit that Larry Mullen of U2 ever had? Other highlights include a guitar from The Edge, a Rickenbacker signed by all four members of R.E.M., signed Rolling Stones ephemera and, bizarrely, a cami-top belonging to Cindy Crawford. But back to the restaurant side of things - it's has three big advantages over the average burger bar: waitress service, real cheese on the cheeseburgers (as opposed to those plasticky slices), and a bar. Also, it's quite popular with local twentysomething's, so I guess it must be a pretty cool place to hang out. The disadvantage: it's marginally more expensive.
- Lanigan's - Eden Quay. Lanigan's is a huge pub on the side of a hotel, on the north bank of the Liffey. It's tremendously popular in the evening, offering really good food (I particularly recommend the steak in pepper sauce) at reasonable prices and live music most nights. If truth be told, it's the traditional music that is the draw, as the acts are very good and, if you are lucky, you might get to see Lisa do some Irish dancing as well. Get here before 7pm or expect to wait for a table.
- The Knightsbridge Arms - Ormond Quay Walk. Another big pub on the side of a hotel. Despite the excellent value (the evening set menu is €17.50 for three courses), this place is less busy than Lanigan's which is a shame because it has plenty of potential. It's particularly good if there is a major live sporting event on, as the bar-staff will wheel out the projection TV for your enjoyment. A final recommendation - have the spicy chicken fingers starter, it's excellent.
- Auriga - This restaurant enjoys an elevated position overlooking the centre of Temple Bar. It's altogether very civilised and, as you might expect, this is reflected in the prices - it's probably the dearest of all the restaurants featured on this page but you can still get a three course meal for less than €35. The food is pretty damn good too, and the staff are very accommodating. The three-pepper sauce on my steak was very hot, which can either be a recommendation or a cautionary tale, depending on your personal preference.
- Kitty Kaboodle's - The menu choice is great, as is the relaxed atmosphere, but the best thing about this place is that each table is furnished with a paper tablecloth and a pot of crayons for your mealtime doodles. The walls are festooned with the artwork of previous diners. Also, O'Donoghue's pub is just next door, which is just as well since the choice of beers in Kitty Kaboodle's is the only thing that lets it down.
- Eamonn Dorran's - Quite possibly my favourite pub in Dublin. Go downstairs (there's a restaurant upstairs) into the dark confines of the bar area. The service is friendly, the jukebox is excellent and there's a small stage where local bands play regularly. Try to make it here on a Thursday night, where they have an indie club night, playing the best in popular alternative music. As an aside, this was the venue for Chris Evans' TFI Friday St Patrick's Day broadcast.
- The Old Strand - Formerly known as The Monico, this was a favoured haunt of Michael Collins, who met his informers here. Nowadays its purpose is far less clandestine - the pub has two semi-circular bars, the larger of which has plenty of room to sit around whilst tucking into the simple but appetising food. The location is nice and central too.
- The Temple Bar - Funnily enough, in Temple Bar. A fine and deceptively spacious pub - it seems like a bit of a warren though, since it integrates seemlessly with another pub and a hotel, as far as I could tell.
- The Oliver St John Gogarty - Temple Bar. Particularly good in warm weather, as the windows are actually just holes in the wall (don't worry, they have shutters over in cold/wet weather). There's a spacious bar upstairs which showcases regular live music - be warned, this is very popular, particularly with camera-wielding tourists. Expect standing room only upstairs after 9pm.
- The Auld Dubliner - Temple Bar. Another popular pub, also with a spacious upstairs bar. There's a greater chance of finding somewhere to sit here though as the live music is slightly less of a 'big thing', which in itself is nice (when I went the band were just sat at one of the many tables rather than being asked to occupy the spotlight). A good pub to finish the evening in, and only three large strides across the road from The Oliver St John Gogarty!
- The Duke - Duke Street. Starting point for the Great Literary Pub Crawl, this is a cosy pub with a traditional feel. It's nice and central too, being just off Grafton Street and, handily enough, is just ninety seconds from Captain America's.
- Davy Byrne's - Duke Street. Just up the road from The Duke, this offers a pleasing contrast - it's 1930's decor is bright and airy, unlike the somewhat 'earthier' Duke. If memory serves, this pub was immortalised in a scene from Ulysses... but I could be wrong.
- Other online guides - in no particular order: Dublinks Clubbing, Dublin VR, Going out in Dublin, Guide to Dublin City, Dublin Hotels and The Hedonist's guide to Dublin.
Doing Edinburgh - a city guide (last updated 21-Nov-2006 10:56:55 GMT)
Not only is Edinburgh Scotland's capital, and home to the Scottish parliament, it was also used to great effect in films like Shallow Grave and Trainspotting. It feels like a city in the ascendancy, and is certainly worth a look. Click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page, or you could spend a couple of quid on the excellent Mini Rough Guide... small, yet perfectly formed. Alternatively, those nice people at Lonely Planet do a very popular guide but it's a bit on the big/heavy side for the jeans pocket. Good fiction for your trip is anything by Iain Banks, Ian Rankin or Irvine Welsh.
- Get wedged up - you can convert your $/¥/whatever into Sterling with the Universal Currency Converter.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Flying - it's a long way up to Edinburgh so probably the best way to get there is to fly. Edinburgh International Airport is about seven miles west of the city centre. Shuttle buses costing around £3.50 run into town regularly (the 100 bus runs to the end of Princes Street); alternatively, taxis charge about £13-£14 for the same journey. Airlines like Go run regular scheduled services to Edinburgh from Stansted at reasonable prices, as do a number of smaller operators. British Airways are dearer, but operate frequent services out of Heathrow and Gatwick. It might also be helpful to know that there's a Tourist Information office right opposite Gate 5 if you need help getting your bearings.
- Buses - an easy means of getting to Edinburgh from London is the National Express service (number 591 or 596) from Victoria Coach Station. Barring adverse traffic down the A1/A1M, the trip takes just under nine hours so pack a good book to read on the way. It is cheap though, especially for students. Edinburgh's bus station is currently right in the middle of the city centre in St Andrew's Square, and only a couple of hundred yards from the main Tourist Information centre so it's handy for picking up info on arrival. Once you're in town you'll find that a number of different bus operators operate services, for example Lothian Regional Transport (LRT) run a fleet of maroon buses; daily and weekly passes can be bought for these buses from ticket offices in Waverley Street and Hanover Street, and represent excellent value for getting around during your stay.
- Trains - Waverley Station is right in the heart of Edinburgh. Trains from London make the 5-hour journey regularly, from Victoria, Charing Cross and Waterloo. It is a long journey though, so take a good book. If you're coming from elsewhere in Scotland, you might want to check out Haymarket Station too. As ever, for all train timetable enquiries check out National Rail.
- Taxis - if you've made your way to Edinburgh by public transport, taxis make a reasonably cheap way of getting around during your stay. Cabs charge a fixed fare for the first 340 yards, an incremental sum for each additional 240 yards, so watch the meter as you're in transit to avoid being diddled. Fares should be the same for all companies - expect to pay time and a half after midnight though. I used City Cabs (0131 228 1211) and had no complaints.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that parking isn't always easy (or cheap) here though.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Going upmarket - there are a number of fine hotels in the city, notably the recently refurbished Holyrood House Hotel, unsurprisingly in Holyrood Road - double rooms start at around £95, and guests can use the well-appointed gym, pool, sauna and steam-room for free. It's very well located for Dynamic Earth, The Palace of Holyroodhouse and the new Scottish parliament. Also recommended for the wealthier among you, and superbly located in the city centre, is the Balmoral Hotel, on Princes Street, famous for its clock which runs two minutes fast for the benefit of commuters hurrying to Waverley Station. The hotel, formerly known as the North British, has a bewildering array of bars and restaurants a pool, sauna and gym, which is nice, but rooms start at getting on for £200, which is less so. 'Tis the best hotel in the city though. Equally well appointed and just as expensive is the Caledonian Hotel at the other end of Princes St, which boasts excellent views of the Castle and a suitably posh French restaurant in the shape of The Pompadour.
- More reasonably... - you could try the Apex International Hotel tucked away in the Old Town in the Grassmarket. Again, you'll get excellent views of the Castle, especially from the upper floors and the rooftop bar/restaurant. Alternatively, check out the ideally placed Parliament House Hotel, in Calton Hill - it is quite new, having recently been converted from council offices where Irvine Welsh supposedly wrote Trainspotting. Regardless of its literary provenance, it's a very nice, modern hotel with all amenities, with double rooms weighing in at around the £90 mark.
- B&B and guesthouses - 26a Abercromby Place is fairly typical of the type of decent B&B you can find in Edinburgh if you look hard enough. A double room will cost around £60 and the breakfasts are very good. Close by is the similarly priced Ardenlee Guest House in Eyre Place, particularly if you fancy a vegetarian meal for the second "B" in B&B! There's private parking for the drivers amongst you too. Alternatively if you're looking for alternative budget lodgings try the Jewel and Esk Valley College's halls of residence, about five miles east of the city centre. The rooms are pretty cheap, there's a swimming pool onsite and the number 44 bus takes you right into town. Not available during term-time, obviously.
- Hostels - there are untold hostels in the City, including many in the Old Town. Examples include the fantastically central Royal Mile Backpacker's in the High Street, and the Edinburgh Backpacker's Hostel in Cockburn Street. Of course there's always the YHA too. I'll let you review their relative merits for yourself here.
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for more info, or for a wider choice of hotels, check out the AA's excellent hotel finder.
- The Castle - you cannot come to Edinburgh without visiting the Castle. Sitting atop an outcrop of volcanic rock, it dominates the City skyline, and has done so since the 12th Century - St Margaret's Chapel, dating from that era, still stands. There's a lot to see in the Castle grounds, so much so that for the sufficiently interested it would be quite possible to spend a whole day there. Having said that, try to arrive just before noon as you could then be fortunate to see the guardsmen who stand watch at the Castle gates change shifts. Soldiers in kilts may sound like an obvious touristy photograph, I know, but everyone takes one! Anyway, once in the Castle (admission is currently £5.50) pick up a free audio-guide - I'm not always keen on wandering round such places with headphones on but this is one of the best guides you will come across and brings the Castle to life for you. Anyway, look out in particular for the One O'Clock Gun, fired daily from the Castle ramparts - now a tradition, this was originally done as an audio time signal to ships in the Firth of Forth (a ball is dropped on the roof the Nelson Monument to give a visual signal). Anyway, crowds start gathering at the Mill's Mount Battery from about 12.45pm so get there early if you want to get a good picture. Also, be warned - the gun is very loud! Anyway, there's loads to see in the Castle, including the Honours of Scotland (a kind of Scottish crown jewels) and the Stone of Destiny, aka the Stone of Scone, the ancient coronation seat of Scottish monarchs that was only returned from England as recently as 1996. Also, check out the National War Memorial, a sombre reminder of the 150,000 Scots who died in World War I, housed in a converted barracks. For me, this added a note of irony to the statue of Field Marshal Haig outside the Castle gates, whose "over the top" trench warfare tactics were a contributory factor to the massive death toll.
- Whisky - another essential stop on your visit is the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre at the top of Castle Hill, not least because whisky was called uisge beatha - the water of life - in Gaelic. On arrival you are given a generous measure of straight whisky to take with you on your tour (soft drinks are available for the kids), and are given a potted history of whisky's history and an explanation of the many different types. Then you get to sit in a barrel and go for an interactive ride through a number of audio-visual displays giving you the same potted history again which might not sound so great but it is quite interesting. Of course there's a bar downstairs too but the best place to end the tour is in the shop where you'll be greeted with row after row of different types of whisky and whisky-flavoured memorabilia. The bottles come in various sizes to suit all budgets too, and what better souvenir could there be for a male relative than a miniature bottle of 20-year old single malt? Admission is somewhere between £4 and £5, if memory serves.
- Obscure - Also at the top of Castle Hill is Edinburgh's Camera Obscura, offering live projections of images from around the city by means of a mirror rotating atop the Outlook Tower. Pretty tame, you might think, but this show is made by the quality of the guide who will offer you a unique and entertaining perspective of the city - watch pedestrians get "picked up" or cars "re-routed", all done with a piece of white cardboard. Also, whilst you're up the tower you have excellent panoramic views of the city and its environs. Clearly these attractions are best enjoyed on a bright, sunny day (try to visit around noon, when there are fewer shadows) but even when it's a little overcast there are still things to do here - the tower also houses Europe's largest collection of holograms, plus an exhibit of optical illusions. I've always been a sucker for such things, it's true, but everyone else there seemed to be enjoying them too. Also, as you wind your way up the stairs to the top of the tower you can peruse a collection of photographs showing Edinburgh life in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
- Dynamic - Dynamic Earth is a relatively new attraction house in a dramatic tented structure in Holyrood Road. The aims of the place is lofty indeed: to trace the changing face of our planet from the Big Bang to the present day in a tour that lasts a couple of hours! Fair play to the place, I think it succeeds pretty well, although if you read everything thoroughly you'll be there for a lot longer than that. Any tourist attraction that takes you from the beginnings of life in the primordial soup right through to the Space Shuttle has surely got to be worth seeing, right? I seem to recall that tickets aren't too cheap though, which might be a consideration if you're taking a family.
- Get educated - there are numerous museums of varying quality in Edinburgh. Some of the better examples include the Royal Museum of Scotland (open 'til 8pm on Tuesdays, if you're trying to fit a lot into your days), John Knox House and the excellent (and free!) Museum of Childhood. What makes the latter especially enjoyable is that the toys on display are not all ancient, so you're find yourself pointing into display cases and saying "I had one of those!" Also worth a visit is Gladstone's Land in the Lawnmarket (essentially a 350 year old tenement house preserved in as original a condition as possible) and the National Gallery of Modern Art in Belford Road which features works by Matisse, Picasso, Magritte, Hockney and Bacon.
- Palatial, monumental or just plain fancy - the Palace of Holyroodhouse nestles at the foot of Arthur's Seat (an extinct, 823ft high volcano) and was home to many a Scot's monarch - "rood" is an alternative word for "cross", by the way. Quite grand, and certainly worth a look, as is the Scott Monument in East Princes Street Gardens. This is the world's largest monument to a writer (Sir Walter Scott). It stands at over 200 feet and (if you don't mind heights and can squeeze up the very narrow spiral staircase) it's worth a climb, as you will be rewarded with excellent panoramic views. If you're wondering why the stonework is so blackened, it's because the monument is considered too delicate to be cleaned. Finally, check out the Kirk of St Giles in the High Street, Scotland's principal church, which houses some pretty fine stained glass windows - in particular, look out for the great west window, dedicated to Robbie Burns. Also, if you stand on Princes Street and face west you'll see what looks like three upturned ice-cream cones in the distance - that's St Mary's Cathedral which, if approached from Melville Street on a sunny morning offers a nice photo opportunity. The west door is quite nice too, but it's pretty dour inside.
- Get walking - if walking tours are your thing, you've come to the right place. There are plain sightseeing walks, ghost walks and themed walks - your best bet is to wander round the Kirk of St Giles where most of the operators have meeting points and numerous advertising boards, so that you can check out the best offers and compare content. I went with Mercat Tours on a tour of the vaults below South Bridge, which was fascinating. If ghost walks are more your cup of tea, it's probably worth noting that they are supposed to get scarier later in the evening, so if you have kids you might want to take them earlier in the day. Alternatively, there's always the McEwan's 80/- Literary Pub Tour which takes in numerous pubs whilst bringing Scottish literature, from Robert Burns to Irvine Welsh, to life. The walk starts outside the Beehive Inn at the end of Grassmarket, lasts two hours and costs £7... plus whatever you spend in the pubs! Finally, there's the Edinburgh Pub Crawl which combines drinking, singing, dancing, and a selection of venues with the freedom to set your own pace or explore more adventurous beverages such as shooters and cocktails. The perfect thing to start off a Stag or Hen night
- House on the hill - take a stroll up Waterloo Place and onto Calton Hill, home to the Nelson Monument and the somewhat peculiar National Monument. The first of these is home to the time ball that is dropped as a visual time signal, in sync with the aforementioned One O'Clock Gun. The latter was originally intended to be a Victorian replica of the Parthenon in Athens, but the builders ran out of money so only one wall was finished. Anyway, the best time of day to go up Calton Hill is mid- to late-afternoon, when the sun streams across the city, making for excellent pictures of everything from Arthur's Seat in the west to the Castle in the east.
- That boat - the Royal Yacht Britannia is moored just a few minutes drive from Edinburgh, near Leith. Allow at least two hours for your visit and get the excellent audio guide to take round with you as you tread in the footsteps of the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. The yacht was very popular with honeymooning Royal couples, most of which have subsequently split up. I came away with a number of overriding impressions: grandeur (especially the Dining Room), vanity (there are so many mirrors), standards (the engine room doesn't look like it has ever been used) and contrasts (compare the tiny crew quarters with the floating luxury of the Queen's and Prince Philip's (separate) bedrooms.
- Get your top off - there are a number of open-top sightseeing buses operating in the City. I used the Edinburgh Tour bus which offers excellent value at £7.50 for a hop-on/hop-off day ticket. It's also one of the view operators that goes out to Dynamic Earth. Also recommended is the Guide Friday service, not least because their route takes in the Royal Yacht. Keep hold of your Guide Friday ticket stubs, as they will entitle you to discounts on Guide Friday sightseeing buses in other cities.
- Festival town - there are too many festivals in Edinburgh to go into in great depth here. Just follow these links to find out more about the Edinburgh International Festival, the International Film Festival, the Fringe, Hogmanay and the Military Tattoo. Just bear in mind that everything get busier and dearer during festival season in August. Check out The Hub on the Royal Mile which acts as a festival information centre, and has a neat cafe too.
- And finally... - a couple of sundry items. Take a walk down George IV Bridge to see the tiny statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the devoted Skye terrier who maintained a vigil by his dead owner's grave in nearby Greyfriar's Kirkyard, until his own death fourteen years later. It's a bit of a clichéd thing to do but you can't leave Edinburgh without a photo of the little dog - be warned though, it's quite easily missed as it's so small. Also, take a walk round the wide boulevards of the New Town, which provide an ideal setting to many interesting shops and restaurants. Following a competition in 1766 to find the best design, the New Town was laid out on reclaimed land (the Nor' Loch had been drained the previous decade) according to the designs of 20 year old architect James Craig, so I guess this qualifies as a very early example of town planning. Strolling down these streets (especially George Street) leaves you feeling you are somewhere much more cosmopolitan - it's my favourite part of the city. In addition, although Princes Street is famous for its shops all you'll find there are the same stores you'll find in your high street back home. It's far more interesting to take a wander along Victoria Street and West Bow, where you'll find an eclectic mix of infinitely more interesting shops.
- Brown's - George Street. You'll know from other guides that I am not a huge fan of restaurant chains. Having said that, Brown's is excellent. The menu is a superb mixture of basic and fancy, the wine list (if a little pricey) stacks up well, and the ambience is most pleasant. The restaurant itself is light and airy - modern without being too modern. The perfect place to take your other half.
- Garfunkel's - Castle Street (?). What's this, another chain? Garfunkel's does good, no-nonsense food at sane prices. It's never going to win any prizes... but it won't let you down either. If you find yourself unable to choose a restaurant one night, cast your preconceptions aside and try it out. Comes with the added bonus that the money you save on food you can spend on beer instead...
- Dubh Prais - High Street. Gaelic for Black Kettle, Dubh Prais specialises in traditional Scottish fare and, as a result is very popular with tourists, especially those with healthy bank balances as it's not a cheap place to eat. The entrance is very plain and unobtrusive though, so be careful you don't walk straight past the door.
- Creeler's - Hunter Square. A seafood restaurant, again with a heavy emphasis on traditional Scottish dishes. It has some interesting paintings on show in its brightly decorated interior, whilst some tables make their way outside in the summer.
- Jackson's - High Street. Another traditional Scottish restaurant, serving such delicacies as Aberdeen Angus beef, salmon, venison, and the like. This basement restaurant is again a little pricey but you can console yourself with a malt whisky from their selection of around fifty!
- The Magnum - Albany Street. The perfect antidote to the touristy restaurants mentioned above. Divided into two sections (bar and restaurant) with different menus for each, the Magnum offers good food at sensible prices, with friendly service and comfy surroundings thrown in. Can be a little quiet on out-of-season weeknights though.
- Mamma's - Grassmarket. Cheap and cheerful pizzeria, offering cheap wine and outdoor seating in the summer. Warrants a mention here for the fact that it offers haggis pizza!
- Pancho Villa's - Cannongate. A colourful Mexican restaurant that seems to be as popular with locals as with tourists. Excellent chicken fajitas, fine beer (try the Dos Equis Amber), tempting puddings (Mexican flan recommended)... good work!
- Number One - Princes Street. I'm not usually a fan of eating in hotel restaurants unless you're staying there but this is an exception. Why? The fillet of beef I had here was quite possibly the best I've had all year, and cannot be recommended highly enough. Be warned though, this place (part of the Balmoral Hotel) is very expensive and has a smart dress code. If you're looking for something a little more low-key, try Hadrian's Brasserie on the other side of the same hotel or the adjacent NB's Bar, which has a pleasing but not overstated sports theme.
- The Guildford Arms - West Register Street. A fine pub with a broad selection of real ales, many of which you won't find south of the border. Its Victorian interior has been well preserved and there's a kind of balcony which is a fine spot to partake of a lunchtime sandwich. Or alternatively you could just try another of those real ales...
- Café Royal - West Register Street. Right next to the Guildford Arms, as luck would have it. The late-Victorian Circle Bar features tiled portraits of such famous Scots as James Watt and William Caxton. Again, fairly decent light bites are on offer at lunchtime.
- Bannerman's - Cowgate. Popular with Edinburgh's large student population, and just about everyone else. Serves a nice pint of Theakston's too. It's a bit of a maze inside, but then it did use to be a cellar apparently, which probably explains that.
- The Doric Tavern - Market Street. There's no other word to describe this place but trendy; maybe it's the brasserie, maybe it's the views of Princes Street, maybe it's the late-night McGuffie's Tavern downstairs, I don't know. Go along and decide for yourself.
- The Last Drop - Grassmarket. So-called because people on their way to the nearby gallows had their last drink there, apparently. Worth a drink for that alone, although I doubt you'd want to spend a whole night there.
- Bow Bar - West Bow. With over one hundred malt whiskies on offer in its oak-panelled confines, it's no wonder that the Bow Bar won an award a couple of years ago as the best drinker's pub in Britain. Go, drink, enjoy.
- The World's End - High Street. This place has many things going for it: good food, well-kept ales, a cosy atmosphere, a quiz night on Tuesdays, live music on Thursday, a central location on the Royal Mile... all that and it feels very cosy too (some might say cramped, but not me).
- Fiddler's Arms - Grassmarket. If you fancy a pint of that most Scottish of Scottish ales, McEwan's 80 shilling, this is the place to go. There's live music on Monday night's too, if that's you thing.
- Green Tree - Cowgate. Is literally heaving in the summer, when the courtyard beer garden proves very popular. There's something about drinking outside, after all.
- The Dome Bar and Grill - George Street. There's a number of bars in this rather grand building, converted from an old bank. It's not the cheapest watering hole in town but it offers a good contrast to some of the more traditional venues in town.
- Mather's - Broughton Street. Renowned for its stout, Guinness, Murphy's and, most appropriately, the local brew, Gillespie's. Its clientele is equal parts post-work office crowd and pre-clubbers.
- Club life - The Peppermint Lounge in Blair Street is a very popular mainstream choice. The Liquid Room in Victoria Street aims for a slightly more indie crowd, and so is very popular with students. The Venue in Calton Road is spread over three floors and is a live music venue as well as a club, so check what's on before you go. Also, I don't know whether it's still there but there's Club Mercado in Castle Street, which had a 70's night on Fridays (called Kerplunk, amusingly enough).
- Other online guides - in no particular order: the Virgin travel guide and The Ultimate Guide to Edinburgh.
Doing Norwich - a city guide (last updated 10-Jul-2008 10:09:45 GMT)
Maybe because of it's location (miles from anywhere), Norwich is something of a well-kept secret. If the only reason you're going to Norfolk is to cruise on the Broads (an excellent holiday, by the way) you're missing out on a fine city! Norwich has plenty of attractions to engage you by day, and untold fine pubs and restaurants in which to spend your evenings... click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page off. Or you could spend a fiver on the excellent value City of Norwich Official Guide... small, yet perfectly formed. A possible alternative, and obviously good is you're focussing on the cathedrals, is Norwich: Pilgrim Guide, which provides a lot of history as well as a guide to the city.
- Get wedged up - you can convert your $/¥/whatever into Sterling with the Universal Currency Converter.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Flying - Norwich does have a somewhat optimistically entitled International Airport. I say optimistically because it's not a massive place. Having said that, it is one of the fastest growing airports in the country, so it might be worth checking out the website to see if there are any airlines from your neck of the woods that fly to the city.
- Buses - a quick and easy means of getting to Norwich from London is the National Express 490 service from Victoria Coach Station. Barring adverse traffic up the A11, the trip takes around 3 hours and it's cheap too, especially for students. Norwich's bus station is pretty central and, having just been refurbished, is spick and span (good) but be warned that not all buses depart from there (bad).
- Trains - by contrast, Norwich's railway station has also recently been refurbished and looks pretty good, especially from outside the main entrance. It is a little bit out of town though, so expect a stiff walk up Prince of Wales Road to get into town. Trains from London run from Liverpool Street and, if you get a direct service, you can be there in about 1 hour 50 mins. Anyway, for all train timetable enquiries check out National Rail.
- Taxis - if you've made your way to Norwich by public transport, taxis make a reasonably cheap way of getting around during your stay. Prices are much the same the between companies - expect to pay time and a half after midnight though. I used ABC Cars (01603 666333) with no problems.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that city-centre parking isn't always easy here though, so you might want to consider one of the "Park and Ride" schemes in operation.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Going upmarket - Probably the fanciest hotels in Norwich are the Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel & Country Club and Dunston Hall. Rooms are not cheap (from £99) and they are both a bit out of town, but this kind of place has a fine restaurant, sauna, solarium, golf course... well, you get the picture. Definitely the places to stay if money is no object, or if your employer is footing the bill! A more central smart hotel would be the The Swallow Nelson, down by the river - nothing like as posh though.
- For maximum historical impact... - why not try the Maids Head Hotel in Tombland, literally a stone's throw from the Cathedral precincts. Parts of the building date back to the 13th Century. It may also be worth enquiring about their murder mystery evenings, if you like that kind of thing.
- B&B and guesthouses - My personal choice would be the Georgian House Hotel at the city-end of Unthank Road. Rooms are spacious and well-presented, breakfast is hearty and the price is reasonable, yet you're only a short stroll from the city centre. If you're just turning up without prior booking, Earlham Road is guesthouse city - in places it seems like every other house is a B&B. Quality (and price) varies, but there is some good value half-decent accommodation to be had here. Alternatively if you're looking for other budget lodgings try UEA's halls of residence, about three miles west of the city centre. The rooms are pretty cheap, there are sports facilities (including a 50m pool) onsite, and numerous buses take you right into town. Not available during term-time, obviously.
- Hostels - there's also the YHA in Turner Road on the West side of town, quite close to the numerous bus routes that run up and down Earlham Road.
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for more info, or for a wider choice of hotels, check out the AA's excellent hotel finder.
- Cathedrals - Norwich has two fine, but quite different, cathedrals. Most famous is the Anglican Cathedral in Tombland, the one with the spire that you see on any and every logo in any way connected with the city. The spire is rightly famous, as it is the second highest in the country, after Salisbury. The cathedral precincts are lovely too, accessible via a number of gates and offering a haven of peace and tranquillity in the heart of the city. Also worth looking out for are the massive cloisters, again the second largest in the country. The St John's Roman Catholic cathedral, at the top of Grapes Hill, offers quite a contrast and, although much less of a tourist draw, it is well worth a visit. Architecturally, its Gothic structure and gargoyles are interesting if that's your thing. Don't expect verdant precincts here though, as this cathedral is surrounded by busy roads. Anyway, my recommendation would be to see both and enjoy the comparison.
- The Castle - unsurprisingly located atop Castle Meadow, Norwich's castle is a curious beast. Recently cleaned up, it presides over the city skyline and provides excellent views in all directions. It's not your typical towers-and-battlements affair either - rather, it's a much more recent design, a single imposing square structure with nicely (but not spectacularly) landscaped grounds. Mind you, there has been a castle of sorts on the site since Norman times. These days the castle houses a fine museum - last time I was there it was displaying a vast collection of teapots, for some unknown reason - and you can also take a tour of the castle itself, including the dungeons, which is interesting for all ages.
- A funny thing happened on the way to... - The Forum in Bethel Street is a wonderful new development. Don't be put off by the fact that this was a Millennium Commission project, it's actually good! Norwich's old library burnt down a few years ago, providing the perfect opportunity to develop a brand new and very high-tech version for the 21st Century. Not only does it house the library, the Forum is also home to Origins, a museum tracing Norwich and Norfolk's history - this may sound a bit dull but it is firmly aimed at kids of all ages (I easily spent three hours in there, which probably tells you something about me!). On top of all this, the Forum has a coffee house downstairs, a Pizza Express on the first floor, plus somewhere to get online (through the library). All this, and the building is a pretty impressive piece of modern architecture too.
- Mustard - Norwich and Colmans go way back. If you come into the city up the River Wensum you'll pass the remains of the company's Carrow factory, and the Bridewell Museum covers local mustard production in some detail. For a real taste of local tradition (and an unusual souvenir) visit the Mustard Shop in the Royal Arcade.
- Get educated - Take a look at the Bridewell Museum, unsurprisingly in Bridewell Alley. It provides an excellent glimpse back into Norwich's past, with an emphasis on lifestyle rather than historic events. Taking a couple of hours to go round properly, this is ideal if the weather turns nasty and you need somewhere interesting to keep out of the rain. Also, the Sainsbury Centre for the Visual Arts is definitely worth a look - there's quite an interesting collection here, with an awful lot of sculpture, all located in a striking glass-fronted building. Why not take a picnic and enjoy the surrounding university campus grounds?
- The river - The River Wensum winds its way into Norwich, and the navigable limit for Broads cruisers is by the Yacht Station, at the foot of Prince of Wales Road. This means that if you're holidaying on the Broads, you've got no excuse not to visit the fine city, though be warned - there isn't a lot of mooring space if you're planning an overnight stay, so get there early. Also on this stretch of the river, it's worth taking a stroll along to Pull's Ferry, which offers a nice photo opportunity if you're looking for a good shot of the cathedral. Alternatively, check out City Boats who operate a variety of conventional and themed river tours throughout the year. The speciality evening tours are recommended - book in advance during the summer though!
- Parklife - one of the city's great treasures, Chapelfield Gardens is a beautiful place to eat a picnic, take a break during a busy day's sightseeing, sunbathe... there's also giant outdoor chess, a bandstand, and 45 different varieties of tree to spot! Five minutes' walk away, at the city end of Earlham Road, you'll find the Plantation Garden, 3 acres of grade II English Heritage registered grounds. Nearly 150 years old, the Garden really is a hidden treasure, tucked away behind the Roman Catholic cathedral. Going here feels a bit like stepping back in time.
- Elm Hill - one of the most picturesque parts in Norwich, particularly on a sunny day, Elm Hill is full of old buildings, cobbled streets, and old-world charm. There are also a number of interesting shops to be found here - antiques, old books, that kind of thing - and an excellent teddy bear shop, if that's your cup of tea. Close to Tombland and the Anglican cathedral.
- Go all "luvvy" - if theatre is your cup of tea, then you've come to the right place! You've a choice of the mainstream Theatre Royal, the more high-brow Assembly House, the intimate Maddermarket Theatre, the unique Norwich Puppet Theatre, the Norwich Playhouse and the excellent Norwich Arts Centre (especially good for comedy events). All these venues are usually involved in the annual Norfolk & Norwich Festival.
- Tombland - Tombland is an interestingly named area of Norwich that lies at the centre of a number of attractions: the Anglican Cathedral, Elm Hill, the River Wensum, Magdalen Street's eclectic range of shops... The fine old buildings that cluster around the heart of Tombland are worth a look in their own right. Also, the Tombland Summer Fair has recently been resurrected, and is a fine day out too.
- Shop 'til you drop - Britain's largest open market is to be found in Gentleman's Walk, nestling beneath the imposing 1920s facade of City Hall. As well as having a bewildering array of stalls (e.g. it's a cracking place to come if you can't find spare parts for your old vacuum cleaner!), it's also an excellent place to grab a lunchtime bite to eat, if all you're looking for is something like a bacon buttie and a mug of tea. Also, the brightly coloured stall roofs make for a colourful photograph on a sunny day, if you can find a good vantage point. Sadly though, the traditional wood-built stalls with canvas roofs are having to make way for modern steel and glass equivalents, courtesy of a council modernisation scheme. Still worth a look though... The Mall offers a real contrast - largely underground, it offers floor upon floor of high-street shopping, and has a good food court too. If you're more of a traditionalist Jarrold's will probably be more your cup of tea, it being a long-established department store. Also worth a mention is the marvellous Royal Arcade, right opposite the market - it's full of interesting little shops, none of which you'll find in your home town (with the exception of the now-obligatory mobile phone store by the entrance) and the decor has bags of bygone charm. On a bright summer's afternoon, the light in the Arcade is very nice too, thanks to a glass ceiling; all in all, it demonstrates that the 1905 concept of a shopping mall is so much nicer than its contemporary equivalent. Speaking of which, the Chapelfield development has just opened - 80+ shops crowded into a new mall on the site of a much-missed chocolate factory. Most of the outlets are fashion-related, although there are one or two shops worth a look. The Morris pasty concession is the pick of a predictable food court.
- A special mention for the little guy - Norwich has loads of cinemas, including all the usual suspects (Odeon, Vue (best mainstream choice in my, ahem, vue) and Hollywood). However, in the shape of Cinema City (St Andrew's Street) it also has one of the country's finest independent art-house cinemas. Its programme is diverse, and encompasses enough to keep both mainstream audiences and lovers of subtitled foreign offerings happy. Well worth a look.
- Caffe Uno - Tombland. Okay, so I don't usually go in for restaurants that are part of a chain but this Caffe Uno is very pleasant indeed. It's also handily placed if the queues for other Tombland restaurants are too long! As with most Caffe Uno's you can see your food being cooked too, which is always nice. I would have to recommend the pollo al rosmarino, followed by a pana cotta for dessert...
- Pedro's - Chapelfield Gardens. The best of sadly-few Mexican restaurant options in Norwich. The food is decent, the service is very friendly and the portions are huge. Okay, so it's hardly in the heart of the city, being stuck in the middle of a park, but if you are looking for the chance to wear a sombrero (honestly!) you won't find anything finer. A word of caution - the spicy chicken dippers starter is hot, hot, hot!
- Pizza Express - St Benedict's. A real favourite, mainly because of the wonderful atmosphere there is to be had here. Have the dough balls to start, they're terrific. If you want a pizza in Norwich, this is the place to go, without question.
- The Floating Restaurant - Riverside. Ideal if you fancy having your dinner on the river, admittedly moored up. Unusual surroundings are not the only thing going for this restaurant though - good food and friendly service are also on offer. Handily placed for the train station too, being only about 30 seconds walk away.
- Figaro's - Westlegate. An unobtrusive, dimly-lit Italian restaurant in a far-from ideal location. The food is good though - pizza especially so - and the service is friendly without being overbearing. Equally good for an evening meal or an affordable lunchtime visit, why not walk those few extra yards past McDonald's and have a real meal for lunch? You'll be glad you did.
- Marmalade's - Royal Arcade. Not a restaurant, just a coffee shop, but perfect if you just want some elevenses or a mid-afternoon snack. If you're expecting an orange colour scheme, with a name like this, then you won't be disappointed but rest assured the overall effect is quite relaxing, not garish. Plus you get to watch the world wander through the rather neat Royal Arcade.
- Captain America's - Exchange St. Purveyors of the finest burgers in Norwich, enough said...
- The Waffle House - St Giles St. Not to everyone's taste on the basis that a waffle for your main course and a crèpe for dessert can seem like too much of the same thing, The Waffle House nevertheless offers a decent (and slightly unusual) meal in relaxed surroundings, and with friendly service.
- Café Rouge - Exchange St. A decent offering from the French restaurant chain. The lamb shank is recommended, as is the crème brulée. Seems a bit strange that the smoking area is by the windows and bar, whilst the no-smoking area is tucked away at the back; as a non-smoker, I think this should be the other way around!
- The Marsh Harrier - Ipswich Road. Head out of town towards Ipswich (on the A140) and on the left-hand side, between the Holiday Inn and Tesco, you'll find this establishment. On entry, find a free table, then take your food order to the bar - the staff will give you a numbered wooden spoon which will act as your table number for the night! But aside from such distractions, the service is friendly, the menu is good (I had the lemon chicken, very nice) and the atmosphere is relaxed. Dress code is a loose interpretation of smart casual though.
- Courtyard Bar & Grill - Tombland. Although it's part of the Maid's Head Hotel, this deserves an entry of its own. The Courtyard Grill building dates back to the 13th Century, and is very handily placed for the Cathedral and Tombland. Food is decent enough, without being anything to get delirious about - it's the convivial atmosphere that's most likely to bring you here.
- Aquarium - Tombland. Be advised: there is a smart casual dress code here, basically because Aquarium fancies itself as quite an upmarket establishment. And, to be fair, it is. Arrive early and have a drink in the upstairs bar before your meal, so you can watch Tombland night-life from the window.
- Tatler - Tombland. This place bills itself as the "home of Norfolk gastronomy" - make of that what you will. What I bill it as is fine, modern cuisine, served up in a relaxing environment. Décor is contemporary yet understated - right up my street.
- Fatso's - Prince of Wales Road. A speak-easy restaurant with a 1920's Chicago theme. Don't expect haute cuisine - specialities include burgers, steak and ribs. Portions are large too, although there is also a more modest lunch menu. It's more lively in the evening though, obviously.
- 18 - Bedford St. Bills itself as a continental cafe but is also, in fact, a fine bar for the hipper-than-thou drinkers amongst you. Wankers take women they want to seduce here for Sunday brunch.
- The Bell Hotel - Orford Hill. A Weatherspoon's pub, The Bell is well placed in the centre of town. The good thing about Wetherspoon's pubs is that as well as having a nice pint of very reasonably priced ale they also serve good, simple food too. Beer and a burger for under a fiver, anyone? And unlike a lot of pubs that are pretending to be restaurants these days, you don't have to listen to blaring music whilst you're eating. A word to the wise: this place gets very busy on Friday and Saturday nights with the pre-club crowd. NB: there are two other Weatherspoon's pubs in the city, both quite modern: The City Gate, at the foot of Grapes Hill, and Lloyd's No 1 Bar, Riverside.
- Bedford's - Bedford St. Although there's a brasserie upstairs, skip that and go straight downstairs to the crypt bar - the low vaulted brick ceiling (13th century) makes for a very atmospheric drinking experience when this place is busy (Fri/Sat nights). The down side is that when it's empty you just want to drink up and move swiftly on...
- The Murderer's - Timberhill. So-called because a murder took place here a couple of hundred years ago, this place was also very popular with 18th century prostitutes apparently! These days it is popular with everyone, and is one of the better city-centre pubs. Original oak beams add to the atmosphere, though the more modern glass-ceiling room to the rear of the pub is nice too, especially on a sunny afternoon. AKA The Gardener's Arms, for some reason.
- Ha!Ha! - Tombland. A relatively new addition to Norwich's pub roster, Ha!Ha! is a very civilised place to have a few beers and a decent bite to eat. If you're ordering food and are having chips (aka "fries" if you're from the US), ask for fat chips, not thin, they're definitely worth it.
- The Rumsey Wells - St Andrew's St. A world away from the image-conscious likes of Ha!Ha!, the Wells offers fine beer in relaxed surroundings. They also sell pick'n'mix by the half-pint glass, and the menu offers a choice of three different mashes and three different gravies. Excellent! What's more, the cellar can be used as a private hire venue for parties, social groups, meetings, drama rehearsals and so on.
- Adam & Eve - Bishopgate. Norwich's oldest pub (first customers served on this site in 1248!) is, as you would expect, a very quaint affair, full of nooks, crannies and low ceilings. Maybe not a place to spend an entire evening, but definitely worth a look. Haunted, apparently...
- The Ribs Of Beef - Fye Bridge St. The local rag's pub of the year for 2001, The Ribs sits between Tombland and Magdalen Street, and overlooks the River Wensum. This pub stands out for its selection of well-kept real ales, good lunchtime menu and regular drinks promotions. Not a bad place to watch televised sport either.
- The Wig & Pen - St Martin's Palace Plain. So-called because of its proximity to the law courts, The Wig & Pen is a 16th century pub that is rated very highly by CAMRA, which is good enough for me.
- The Mischief - Fye Bridge St. Another fine pub, very close to The Ribs so handily placed for pub-crawling purposes. Friendly and good for making memories.
- Take 5 - Tombland. Another old pub, this one dating back to the 15th century, Take 5 (formerly The Louis Marchesi) is notable for its crypt bar, which can even be hired out for private parties. Live music is fairly common, whilst keenly priced food is also a big draw.
- The Edith Cavell/Cole's - Tombland. Used to be the very traditional Edith Cavell but has now had a revamp as a trendy bar. The original pub (the sign for which is still displayed in the window) was named after one of the city's more famous residents and was a fairly straightforward, run-of-the-mill establishment. The jury's still out on the revamp - it is extremely handily placed for pre-club drinking though.
- The Fat Cat - West End St. CAMRA's pub of the year in 1998. On my last visit this pub had about 20 real ales on offer, so if a decent pint is what you're looking for, look no further.
- The Shed - corner of Sprowston Road and Lawson Road. Worth the 10-15 minute walk from Tombland, this converted social club is now a serious real ale pub, run by the same folks as The Fat Cat. Live music on Fridays too. Recommended.
- The Compleat Angler - Princes of Wales Road. One of the better watering holes on Prince of Wales Road but unfortunately at the far end of it! There is also space to sit outside by the river in fine weather, although this is spoiled by the fact that the adjacent road is so busy. Quite handy for a pint before catching a train somewhere though, as the station is just across the road..
- The Surrey Tavern - Surrey St. A very quiet pub in the evenings but included here as it's ideal if you just want a pint of well-kept ale and a game of pool.
- The Freemasons Arms - Hall Road (formerly The Billy Bluelight). Has one of the best selections of real ales in the city, with many regular guest beers. Also has a skittle alley, which you might like to try...
- The Mad Moose - Warwick St. Worth a mention on the basis that numerous Norwich City Football Club players pop in here for a swift beverage. Also has a decent restaurant, by all accounts.
- The Garden House - Pembroke Road. Popular with students and quiz-lovers alike - the Monday night quiz is always rammed. Expect a few tough questions... and enjoy the special quiz bar snacks menu.
- The Plasterer's Arms - Cowgate. One of my first pub visits in the fine city, The Plasterer's is a simple pub in a less than marvellous part of town but has a nice atmosphere and is very good for people-watching. Best in the evening when the poor lighting adds to the ambience! Good choice of ales too.
- The Rushcutters - Yarmouth Road. A little out of town, down by the river, so busy with boating tourists in the summer. Again, is good for food, with a fine menu of freshly prepared dishes. Recommended for a summer's afternoon when you have no place else to be...
- Club life - Norwich is quite well served in this respect. Time, part of the waterside development, is the most modern club in the city and is very popular with Norwich's bright young things. At the other end of the scale, and more to my taste, you'll find The Waterfront in King Street, owned and operated by the University of East Anglia Student Union. Particularly good are the Thatcher Experience 80's night, and the Meltdown indie nights. Decor is very basic and the beer is served in plastic glasses or straight from the can, but the music is good and so is the vibe. Somewhere between these extremes you'll find clubs like Chicago's in Prince of Wales Road, your average girls-dancing-round-handbags type pub/club hybrid. In fact you'll find a sprinkling of clubs of various quality (or seediness) down the aforementioned Princes of Wales Road (where you'll also find Liquid), so you could always take pot luck in any of these. Ponana on Bank Plain provides a nice alternative if seedy clubs are not your thing. Alternatively, you could always check out clubbed.com for more up-to-date clubbing info.
- And finally... - for more detailed information about pubs in the fine city, Ant Veal's UK Pub Guide has some very handy info.
- Other online guides - in no particular order: Norwich Tonight, The Knowhere Guide to Norwich, MyNorwich and Visit Norwich.
- Pocket Norwich - brilliant idea! Audio tours who can download to your MP3 player of choice or phone, plus multimedia tours you can download to a PDA or other mobile device. Only 99p a go!
- Norwich City Football Club - on the ball, City! Ooh-aah-Delia, etc. Seems a lifetime ago they were beating the likes of Bayern Munich in the UEFA Cup. Who knows what's next for the yellow and green army?
- Eastern Daily Press - publishers of two excellent local papers, the EDP and the Evening News, both good for "what's on" type stuff. Saturday's EDP is especially good.
- Norwich City Council - slightly boring but useful for local businesses and services.
- The coat of arms - in case you're into heraldry...
Doing York - a city guide (last updated 21-Nov-2006 10:56:55 GMT)
York one of the few designated British Heritage Cities, largely due to the well-preserved nature of its Medieval past. It is also home to the largest Cathedral in Europe north of the Alps, and is an ideal base for exploring the north of England... click on the ▲ anywhere to return here.
Before you go | Getting around | Where to stay | Sightseeing | Places to eat/drink | Miscellaneous
- Get a guidebook - you could just print this page off. Or you could spend a few quid on the excellent value Insight Compact Guide to York and the City of York Official Guide. A possible alternative, and obviously good is you're focussing on the cathedral, is York: Pilgrim Guide, which provides a lot of history as well as a guide to the city.
- Get wedged up - you can convert your $/¥/whatever into Sterling with the Universal Currency Converter.
- Get a weather forecast - courtesy of Yahoo Weather.
- Flying - whilst there is a York Airport (I think), it's certainly not the kind of place you're going to find trans-Atlantic jets landing in. If you really must fly, you're probably better off heading for the Leeds/Bradford International Airport and then making the rest of the journey by road.
- Buses - a quick and easy means of getting to York from London is the National Express 426 or 563 services from Victoria Coach Station. Barring adverse traffic, the trip takes around 5 hours and it's cheap too, especially for students. The coach will drop you off at the railway station, bizarrely enough.
- Trains - speaking of which, York's railway station is pretty central. On arrival, you'll get your first sight of the city walls. Anyway, turn left out of the station and head up the appropriately named Station Road and you'll find you're just a few minutes walk from the city centre. Trains from London run from King's Cross and, if you get a direct service, you can be there in about 1 hour 50 mins. Anyway, for all train timetable enquiries check out National Rail.
- Taxis - if you've made your way to York by public transport, taxis make a reasonably cheap way of getting around during your stay. Prices are much the same the between companies - expect to pay time and a half after midnight though. I used Ace Taxis (01904 638888) with no problems.
- Driving there - if you're driving, the RAC can help plan your route - you might also want to check the traffic. Be aware that city-centre parking isn't always easy here though, so you might want to consider one of the "Park and Ride" schemes in operation.
- Maps - a fully scalable map of the city is available here.
- Going upmarket - probably the fanciest hotels in the York area are Middlethorpe Hall and Le Meridian York. Rooms are not cheap (from £100+ in both cases) but staying in this kind of place adds a little something to your holiday. Middlethorpe is five minutes drive out of the city, whilst Le Meridien is much more central. That's not the only difference either: parts of Middlethorpe date back to the 17th Century! If fitness room, sauna, solarium and a pool are important to you though, your best bet's Le Meridien. Anyway, these are definitely the places to stay if money is no object, or if your employer is footing the bill!
- For maximum historical impact... - why not try the Dean Court Hotel which is literally in the shadow of York Minster. As you would expect from a hotel with such a fantastic location, the owners have made a big effort here to bring a trace of luxury to your stay... at a price (single rooms are £85, four-poster rooms are £180). If you're taking your other half to York for a romantic break, this is probably the hotel for you.
- B&B and guesthouses - my personal choice would be the Heather's Guest House in Shipton Road. Rooms are spacious and well-presented, the welcome (from Graham and the eponymous Heather) is friendly and the price is reasonable, yet you're only a reasonable stroll from the city centre. Alternatively if you're looking for other budget lodgings try the University of York halls of residence, about two miles south-east of the city centre. The rooms are pretty cheap, large facilities (8-person suites) are available, and numerous buses take you right into town. Not available during term-time, obviously.
- Hostels - there are three hostels of note in the City, Backpackers (in Micklegate), the York Youth Hostel (in Bishophill Senior) and the YHA (in Water End, Clifton). I'll let you review their relative merits for yourself here.
- Let someone else find a hotel for you - for more info, or for a wider choice of hotels, check out the AA's excellent hotel finder.
- York Minster - York is rightly famous for the colossal Minster which, as mentioned earlier, is the largest cathedral in Europe north of the Alps. Not only that, it's also the largest Medieval building of any sort in England! The Rose Window in the South Transept is particularly famous - a visit around lunchtime (to maximise the available light) will give you the best chance of getting a decent photograph of it. Also, keep an eye out for the astronomical clock in the North Transept; it was hand-made at the Royal Greenwich Observatory and given to the Minster to commemorate the 18,000 Allied airmen who lost their lives in World War II when flying out of local airbases. It's probably also worth the (somewhat long!) climb up the Central Tower for unrivalled views over the city and its environs, although there is a token charge for the privilege. There's also the Foundations Museum under the Minster itself - again, this carries an admission fee but it is certainly worth it if you want to find out more about how the present building was constructed on the site of a Norman cathedral, which in turn was built on a Roman fort.
- The Castle & Clifford's Tower - a steep flight of steps lead up a mott to Clifford's Tower, which was built by Henry III in the 12th Century after its wooden predecessor burnt down. There's not much to see in the tower itself, although it makes a good viewpoint. The slightly pink colouring of the interior walls is supposed to have appeared after a number of its occupants dies in a siege - it represents their blood, apparently! Just next to the Tower is the Castle Museum which is certainly worth a look - it recreates different historical periods with detailed sets, some using original artefacts. The life-sized street (the Victorian Kirkgate and Edwardian Half Moon Court) are especially good. Also very interesting for people my age is the "Every Home Should Have One" exhibit, which includes early TVs, vacuum cleaners and other household appliances. See how many you can remember!
- Jorvik - The Jorvik Viking Centre in Coppergate takes visitors around a reconstruction of a Viking settlement. Basically you sit in a little car and get wheeled round the set, highlights of which include a busy market, smoky houses and a wharf. The sights and sounds (and smells!) are quite entertaining - kids in particular seem to love it. Also worth a look are the well-preserved remains of 10th Century buildings that were unearthed during an archaeological dig on the site. There's also a comprehensive display of other artefacts found during the dig, with pride of place going to a virtually intact Viking helmet (which also provides the inspiration for the Centre's logo). Beware long queues in the summer though - as I said, it's a very popular attraction.
- National Railway Museum - now I'm not one of those guys who's mad-keen on trains but even I enjoyed this museum. Situated in Leeman Road, by the station (funnily enough), the National Railway Museum is the largest and most comprehensive railway museum in the world. Particular highlights come from the era of steam, with Stephenson's Rocket and the Mallard - the fastest ever steam locomotive - both being on display. There are also some old Royal carriages on display, which are worth a look. The Brief Encounter restaurant in the South Hall doesn't really live up to its name (how could it?) but is okay for a cup of tea or a light snack.
- Yorkshire Museum - This museum, to be found in Museum Gardens funnily enough, is home to one of England's richest archaeological collections, including Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Viking and medieval artefacts. Particularly worth a look are the 2nd Century Roman mosaics and the beautiful Middleham Jewel. The latter is an incredibly detailed piece of Gothic jewellery, and cost the Museum about £2.5 million to acquire! But that's not all - nip outside into the Museum's botanical gardens and take a look at the remains of a Roman fortress and the ruins of St Mary's Abbey. Please do note my use of the words remains and ruins though - don't expect to see whole buildings or even whole walls!
- York Dungeon - You know the drill by now - wander round a dimly-lit attraction where the grisly facets of York life in days gone by are vividly recreated - typical fayre includes branding, beheading, boiling, roasting and drowning as means of punishment. Sounds pretty tame, right? Maybe, but the York Dungeon in Clifford Street is worth a visit as it has a special exhibit on the Gunpowder Plot of 1605, when Guy Fawkes (who was from York) tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament. There's also a bit on fabled local highwayman Dick Turpin.
- Houses... - York is almost groaning under the weight of its numerous historic buildings. For a start there's the Treasurer's House in Minster Yard which, as the name suggests, was originally home to the Minster's Treasurer. Although a 17th Century building, it was extensively refurbished in the late-19th. Even so, there are interior designs from Georgian right through to Victorian on show; the highlight for me was the ornate lavatories! Note: this is closed on Fridays and during the Winter. Fairfax House in Castlegate is also worth a look, being one of the finest 18th Century townhouses in the country. Once a cinema and dance hall, this has now been fully restored by the York Civic Trust, and is home to a fine collection of old clocks! Again, this is shut during the winter. Best of all is the Merchant Adventurer's Hall between Piccadilly and Fossgate. This dates back to the mid-14th Century and, incredibly, the basic structure remains virtually unaltered. You can see the great timbered upper room, where merchants once plied their wares, and the old hospital (with chapel) below. There are also exhibitions on the history of trades and guilds. There are also numerous displays of items used by the guilds over the centuries, dating back to Elizabethan times.
- York brewery - you might not think so to look at it from the outside but the York Brewery makes for a very interesting visit. There is a very informative guided tour that takes you round the brewery, so you can get to see how their beer is made, and there's a small bar at the end of the tour where you can sample the merchandise! If you have any kind of interest at all in real ale, or just need an indoor attraction for a couple of hours, then the York Brewery is very highly recommended.
- Shambles, bars and snickelways - York is a great place for just having a walk around. Particularly famous is The Shambles, a Medieval street full of craft shops that lean precariously towards each other. Stonegate is another street worth a look - this one dates backs to Roman times, when it was known as the Via Pretoria. It's also worth exploring the numerous snickelways - narrow passageways - that interlink many of York's major streets. Whilst you're out and about, take a stroll along the city walls, which are intact virtually all the way around the city. This is an especially good way to see York's famous bars - not pubs but fortified gateways. Bootham Bar, to the North, dates back to the 12th Century, whilst Monk Bar is the tallest of the gates, and has a working portcullis. Walmgate Bar is the best preserved gateway, whilst Micklegate Bar has the most gruesome history: the decapitated heads of traitors used to be displayed over this gate as a warning to others! Anyway, to do a complete lap of the city walls takes 1.5 hours at a steady pace. The section between Monk Bar and Bootham Bar provide the best photo opportunities for the Minster.
- Tours - One of the best ways to see York is by open-top bus - a Guide Friday service runs every ten minutes from 9.20am during high season, with main pick-ups points at the railway station, Museum Gardens, Exhibition Square and Clifford's Tower. You pay once and then can hop on and off all day. I personally recommend sitting on the top deck with your camera poised, as this is a great way of getting to numerous photo opportunities without having to walk too far! Alternatively, Castle Line Cruises offer a variety of differently themed cruises from mid-March to October, departing from Skeldergate Bridge - the lunch-time cruise is popular as it includes an hour's stop at The Ship Inn for a pub lunch... after which you may want to sign up for a walking tour to burn off a few calories! There is a free guided tours, staffed by knowledgeable volunteers, that leaves from Exhibition Square on a regular basis. This is recommended but be warned, it is quite a trek though - it takes getting on for two hours, and incorporates a fair chunk of the city walls. There are also a number of evening ghost walks which are fun - I went on the Ghost Walk of York which leaves from outside the Minster but there are others too, so you might want to shop around.
- Go Down - Clifford Street. The Go Down is a wonderful basement bistro/brasserie, and was probably my favourite dining experience in York. Not only is the food very good, the service is friendly and attentive too - you feel like you're being well looked after. They also have live music on a couple of nights per week (Wednesday and Saturday, I think).
- Caffe Uno - Clifford Street. Okay, so I don't usually go in for restaurants that are part of a chain but this Caffe Uno is nice enough and handily placed for Clifford's Tower, being just a short stroll down its eponymous street. As with most Caffe Uno's you can see your food being cooked too, which is always nice. I would have to recommend the pollo al rosmarino, followed by a pana cotta for dessert...
- St William's - College Street. For maximum historical impact you could eat at St William's, which is located in a half-timbered building in the shadow of York Minster. The food lives up to the surroundings too, with fish dishes being a speciality (the smoked haddock is recommended - the spinach fish cakes are also worth a look).
- The Deanery - Low Petergate. If you like roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (which I do) then try The Deanery, as it is their speciality. This restaurant is part of Galtres Lodge Hotel and is situated in a nicely restored Georgian brick building.
- Bengal Brasserie - Goodramgate. If you prefer something a little livelier, try this Indian, voted Restaurant of the Year by the local Evening Post newspaper back in 1996. Not only is the food pretty good, the restaurant itself is nicely decorated, with traditional Indian screens and pictures taking prominence.
- Oscar's Wine Bar - Little Stonegate. This is neat little bistro with a resolutely old-fashioned feel. The relaxed atmosphere that pervades Oscar's makes it the perfect place for a simple meal - it is especially good for burgers and does a nice homemade lasagne too.
- Delifrance - Low Petergate. For lunch, you could do a lot worse than pop in here. Okay, so it's not really a local menu (check out the name, after all) but it does a good line in freshly-made baguettes.
- Whitehead and Schmitter - Goodramgate. A quiet restaurant set in a 16th Century building with exposed timbers. Especially good if you have a taste for seafood, so I'm told (I'm not big on seafood personally). I should probably warn you that they are closed on Sundays though.
- Bella Pasta - Low Petergate. A pretty good place to try for a reasonably priced pasta or pizza-based meal. Okay, so it's part of a chain but I'm not a food-snob. Al least it's open on Sundays!.
- Kings Arms - Kings Staith. A traditional and atmospheric pub with a nice line in lunchtime food. You can also sit outside on the riverside, weather permitting. Be warned though - this is the pub you often see flooded on TV when the River Ouse bursts its banks!
- The Maltings - Tanners Moat. One of the best/widest range of beers in York. Not the most salubrious of surroundings, but you can't have everything in life...
- Victor J's Art Bar - just off St Sampson's Square. If you can get past the stupid name and bright yellow signs, this is a neat place to hang out. The food is good, the beer is okay (although the range is quite narrow) and the atmosphere is relaxed and pretty chilled. Worth a look.
- The Mason's Arms - Fishergate. Worthy of a recommendation for both the well-kept beer and the good food (and big portions) - both are keenly priced too.
- Ackhorne Inn - St Martin's Lane. A little off the beaten track, so quieter than many city centre pubs. The real draw here is the well-kept beer and (regularly changed) guest beers. Food available is a bit basic but cheap!
- The Royal Oak Inn - Goodramgate. Don't let the fact that this was 'Tourist Pub of the Year 2001' put you off! The Oak does has quaint features, like lots of wood panelling, but more importantly it serves a good pint of ale in a central location. What more could you want?
- Club life - York is reasonably well served in this respect. Ikon & Diva are very popular with York's bright young things. At the other end of the scale, and more to my taste, you'll find The Gallery in Clifford Street. Particularly good are the Club Culture Northern Soul/Mod/Motown night on Thursdays, and the "More Tea Vicar?" indie theme on Sunday nights. Somewhere between these extremes you'll find clubs like Sly's and Ziggy's, so you could always take pot luck in any of these. Alternatively, you could always check out clubbed.com for more up-to-date clubbing info.
- And finally... - for more detailed information about pubs in the area (but not actually in York, sadly), Ant Veal's UK Pub Guide has some very handy info.
- Other online guides - in no particular order: This Is York City Guide, City of York UK Tourist Guide, The Knowhere Guide to York and the Virgin travel guide.
- York City Council - slightly boring but useful for local businesses and services.
- The coat of arms - in case you're into heraldry...