As you know from earlier, five years ago, almost to the day, I went to Tokyo for a few days. Here's my travel diary from then, unedited, for day two of the trip. It's not the greatest piece of writing, and the tone of it makes me wonder what (or who?) I was writing it for. Anyway, here goes...
20th November 2012
Blimey, what a busy day. If I resort to bulletpoints later I'm sorry but there's so much to write...
Up at seven for a nice hot shower just down the corridor, then breakfast of scrambled egg, a bacon-like meat, croissant, orange juice and bread rolls. I really like this place and wish I had booked all three nights here. Still, tomorrow night's capsule hotel stay will no doubt be an experience...
First trip of the day was a tube ride out to Narimasu to see the Daibatsu (giant Buddha) at the Jourenji temple. The only directions I had from the tube station were to walk for 20 minutes in a north-easterly direction and given the lattice of tiny streets, this wasn't very helpful. But I did find it, despite there being no-one out in the suburbs who spoke English. Finally, as I was on the verge of giving up (after spotting what I correctly thought was the top of the temple roof between buildings but still being unable to pinpoint it) an elderly Japanese man helped. All I said was "Buddha?" and he pointed me in the right direction ... then followed me to make sure I wouldn't miss it. The Daibatsu was huge, the temple serene, and the whole trip a worthwhile contrast to the hustle of the city centre - empty streets, quiet domestic life, a smalltown feel - a different side of Tokyo.
After finding my way back to the tube (much more easily), I headed back into the city and to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace (Higashi-gyoen and the Ninomaru Garden). Peaceful and starkly beautiful, not what we would consider a garden to be though - all trees and lawns, no flowers. From there it was a short walk to the wonderful Wadakura Fountain Park, a little gem, sparkling in the sunshine. Then, after grabbing a sandwich for lunch at the impressive, Western-style Tokyo Station, I went by tube down to Ginza, visiting the Sony building first, then having a £6.50 beer in the Sapporo Lion Beer Hall.
Back on the tube again for a trip to the Tokyo Tower, a red and white 50's version of the Eiffel Tower. It has observation levels at 150m and 250m, so naturally I went to both. Was still up there as the sun set behind a distant Mount Fuji.
On foot from there up through the commercial stretch of Roppongi, a neon strip of clubs, bars and shops. From the tube station there back to my local stop, Yotsuya, and back to the Eishinkan to drop off bags and have half an hour.
Then back out to find dinner - ended up in the Bambi restaurant, Shinmichi, where you order at a vending-style machine, get a ticket, put it on the bar and watch it be cooked. The U-shaped bar has the cooking/prep area in the middle, where the twelve set dishes offered at the vending machine are prepared. I had hamburger, topped with cheese and gravy, served with sweetcorn, carrot, sauté potato and a mountain of rice for ¥700, i.e. about £5.50. Oh, and it was served with a glass of water and a cup of gravy. Nice touch!
Then back to my room to write postcards and record the day. I'm exhausted and footsore, having walked miles, but it's been a good day. And I phoned ■■■■■■■■ from half way up the Tokyo Tower as the sun set. A quality moment.
Things I seem to have neglected to mention then but stick in the mind now:
- that breakfast... the "bacon-like meat" was a perfect circle. Also, the Eishinkan's take on a westerner's breakfast included a single lettuce leaf, which really should have been noted
- I passed a couple of cemeteries on the way to the Jourenji temple. These, with their narrow wooden grave markers, are quite something to behold
- the "gravy in a cup" served up at Bambi was white, so maybe it wasn't gravy. It tasted like gravy though.
There will be two more entries like this. Try to contain your excitement.
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